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The Great Himalayan National Park, Himachal Pradesh, 19-29 April 1999

Anchal and Sanjay Sondhi (sondhi@yahoo.com)

The Great Himalayan National Park, with a size of approx. 760 sq. km.
is in Himachal Pradesh. The Park has three tributaries of the Beas
River flowing through it- Jewa, Sainj and Tirthan. We spent our time in
the Tirthan Valley.
Approach to Tirthan Valley: Sai Ropa (1385 m.), Ghusaini (1495 m.)
Sai Ropa is a small village about 5 km away from Ghusaini.
Ghusaini ,a small village, is the main gateway to the Tirthan Valley.
The Park Boundary is approx. 6 km from Ghusaini, begins at Kharongcha.
We trekked in the National Park between the 19 th and 29 th of April.
We climbed from approx. 1400 m. to 3600 m. during our stay, but a large
part of our time was spent above 3000 m. The area had not received any
snow or rain for over 8 months, so the area was extremely dry. There
were very few fresh water sources above 3000 m. In a number of places,
we had to manage by melting snow, collected from the few small remnant
patches.
Quite a few forest fires had erupted, leading to poor visibility, even
at heights above 3000 m. The lack of rain, high temperatures and human
carelessness, possibly being the primary reasons for the fires. We
basically trekked on 2 routes which are mentioned under. Sanjeeva
Pandey, the director of the National Park was with us for the first
couple of days, after which we were on our own.

Route 1: Ghusaini-Kharongcha-Rolla-Shilt-Chordwar-Rakhundi
Kharongcha: This is a small village close to the entrance of the
National Park. The village is just above the Tirthan Nala at a height
of approx. 1900 m.
Rolla (1900 m): Rolla is a camping spot at the banks of the Tirthan
Nala and has a few forest dept. huts.
Shilt(3000 m.): Shilt is a small "thach" .The climb from Rolla to Shilt
is steep, through coniferous and broad leaved forest.
Chordwar(2960 m.): The only place at that height with running water,
that too, a small trickle of water. Chordwar is only a camping spot
with a small water hole, in the midst of dense jungle. The forest at
Chordwar was mainly Deodar, Moru Oak (in great abundance), Maple,
Horse-Chestnut and lots of Ringal Bamboo in patches. 
Rakhundi(3622 m.): From Chordwar, one climbs to Rakhundi, which is an
alpine meadow.
Route 2: Kharongcha-Dingcha-Bakhadi-Dingcha-Kauncha-Ghusaini
Bakhadi(approx. 3000 m.): The route to Bakhadi is a climb from
Kharongcha through coniferous forest. Bakhadi is a large "thach",
almost half a kilometre long, with spurs of coniferous forest on the
hillside. So the entire hillside alternates between forest patches and
grass meadows. The forest enroute to Bakhadi is different from the
Shilt-Chordwar area. This forest has more confers and less oak. The
forest enroute to  and at Bakhadi was primarily Spruce, Deodar, Blue
Pine and Low-level Silver Fir. Ringal Bamboo occurred only sparsely.
Ban Oak at the lower levels and Moru Oak at the higher levels.
High-level Silver Fir occurred at the higher levels. At Bakhadi, some
Birch grew in company of Deodar and High-level Silver Fir. The forest
enroute to Bakhadi and at the thach area was not as dense as the
Shilt-Chordwar-Rakhundi area.

The Great Himalayan National Park is very rich in wildlife. During our
visit we identified 120 bird species, 45 butterfly species and quite a
few mammals. In addition, we photographed approx. 40 species of flowers
which included 3 species of Primula, 2 species of Rhododendron,
Anemones and a host of other flowers.

List of birds seen
134.	Blackeared Kite	Milvus migrans lineatus
23/4/99	Rakhundi
Spotted a solitary kite in flight from the summit of the hill.
Bakhadi
Sighting of 4 kites in flight on the first day at dusk and a solitary
kite at the same time the next day. Even though the birds were quite a
long way up, their flight was typical of kites. I noticed white patches
on the underside of the wings. A pale head visible whenever the bird
banked in flight.
164.	Booted Hawk-Eagle	Hieraaetus pennatus
Rakhundi: Spotted the same bird twice, in flight, from the summit in
the late morning. Clear sightings from both above and below.
Dhingcha: Spotted the bird in flight in the morning, flying over the
Tirthan Nala. The Booted Hawk-Eagle was being repeatedly chivvied by
Jungle Crows.
149.	West Himalayan Besra Sparrow Hawk 	Accipeter virgatus
Chordwar
Spotted a Sparrow-Hawk in densely forested habitat on 2 different
occasions. Size: Shikra sized bird. The bird was slaty grey above with
a large amount of rufous on the belly. 3-4 bars on the tail. Spotted
the bird hunting in the forest, winging its way adroitly through the
forest. Possibly the West Himalayan Besra Sparrow-Hawk. Call of the
bird as it flew past us in the forest: a harsh "chaeeya".

Unidentified accipeter at Kharongcha. Possibly a Shikra.

166.	Golden Eagle		Aquila chrysaetos
Shilt
Spotted a pair of birds- a juvenile and an adult in flight over the
thach at Shilt in the forenoon. 
Rakhundi
Spotted a juvenile bird on a different day, possibly the same bird seen
at Shilt.
Bakhadi
Spotted a juvenile bird above the thach at Bakhadi. The Golden Eagle
was being chivvied by a Jungle Crow for quite a while! It was amazing
that the powerful eagle was constantly trying to avoid the Jungle Crow,
but with little success!
This is the first time I have had so many sightings of the Golden Eagle
on a single visit. According to some of the WII researchers working
there, the Golden Eagle is seen quite frequently in the area.
In flight, the juvenile birds had the prominent white wing patches, as
well as a white rump. The birds flight is quite distinct- the wing tips
are quite splayed and the wings form almost a U shape above the back.
Light colored head visible on occasions.
172.	Black Eagle		Ictinaetus malayensis ?
Rakhundi
Possible sighting of a Black Eagle from the summit area at Rakhundi.
The bird was seen in flight. The bird's size, its coloration and the
broad wings with splayed wing tips indicative of its identity.
181.	Himalayan Griffon 	Gyps himalayensis
Sai Ropa
We were climbing up the hillside close to Sai Ropa when we saw a
Himalayan Griffon fly over and then settle down on a tree a few hundred
feet away.
188.	Bearded Vulture	Gypaetus barbatus
Sai Ropa, Chordwar area
222.	Kestrel			Falco tinnunculus
Sai Ropa, Rakhundi. The bird seen at Rakhundi at 3600 m, possibly the
female, given its larger size. 
238.	Black Partridge   	Francolinus francolinus
Sai Ropa to Ghusaini
The Black Partridge heard calling along the road from Sai Ropa to
Ghusaini.
267.	Common Hill Partridge	Arborophila torquela	            
Chordwar
We spotted a group of birds scrabbling near Ringal Bamboo, only to
loose sight of them almost immediately. We waited a long while for the
birds to re-appear and finally Anchal had a good look at the birds. The
birds were a pair of Common Hill Partridges-male and female, along with
a covey of young birds. Possibly 3-4 chicks.
285.	Western Tragopan	Tragopan melanocephalus ?
Shilt-Chordwar area
A WII team was researching the Western Tragopan based at Shilt. The
research team had just begun an attempt to  radio collar some
Tragopans. We did not see any Tragopan's, but thought we heard them
calling. However, we found feathers of the bird (which are quite
distinctive) on more than one occasion. According to the research team,
the area at Shilt-Chordwar, is extremely rich in Pheasants, a fact
borne out by the number of Pheasants heard and seen by us.
The research team mentioned that the Tragopan had not started its
breeding activity (May-June, being the breeding season, according to
them) and hence was not calling much. Apparently, during the breeding
season, the birds are easier to see, as their incessant calling, gives
them away.
290.	Monal Pheasant	Lophophorus impejanus
Commonly heard and seen in all areas. We must have had over 20
sightings of Monal during our trip, both males and females. The Monal
Pheasant being extremely common at Shilt, Chordwar, Rakhundi and
Bakhadi areas. The birds calls heard very frequently, specially in the
early morning and at dusk.

294.	Khalij Pheasant	Lophura leucomelana
Rakhundi area
Spotted a female bird close to 7:00 pm. We were camped near a small
cave, and the pheasant walked past the campsite, not more than 20 feet
from where we sat. It is unusual to see the Khalij Pheasant at a height
of close to 12,000 ft, the bird being commoner at lower altitudes. The
Handbook mentions that the Khalij Pheasant can be seen at 3600 m (12000
ft).
Kharongcha
Spotted the male Khalij Pheasant in a cultivated field, close to the
Tirthan Nala.

304.	Koklas Pheasant	Pucrasia macrolopha
No sightings of the Koklas, but heard the bird calling very frequently
at Shilt, Chordwar, Rakhundi and Bakhadi. Often heard the bird calling
during the day, too. The Handbook mentions that the breeding season
begins in April, which may explain its frequent calling.
411.	Woodcock		Scolopax rusticola
Shilt-Chordwar area
The research team caught the Woodcock in one of its mist nets. The
breeding season had not yet begun, so the Woodcock was not heard
calling. However the local people confirmed that the Woodcock's was
seen roding in later months. The Handbook mentions its breeding season
from April to July.

516.	Blue Rock Pigeon 	Columba livia
520.	Speckled  Wood Pigeon	Columba hodgsini
Chordwar, Dhingcha, Bakhadi, Kauncha
Spotted pigeons flying in the forest with a very pale head, which were
in all possibility Speckled Wood Pigeons. However, a nice sighting of a
flock of Speckled Wood Pigeons near Dhingcha village. The birds flew
onto a leafless tree and then some of them dropped onto a field to
feed. The locals with us mentioned that the pigeons like to eat the
purple berries of a thorny bush (Berberis ssp?).
Another sighting of a solitary bird below Bakhadi, which seemed very
sluggish. The bird did not seem injured but settled down on a low
branch, quite close to us and huddled into the foliage, refusing to
fly. 
A few other sightings of the pigeons flying over Tirthan Nala.
531.	Western Turtle Dove		Streptopilia orientalis meena
Occasional sightings of the birds. A pair of birds seen at a thach
close to Shilt.
537.	Spotted Dove			Streptopelia chinensis
541.	Little Brown Dove		Streptopelia senegalensis
Shilt
We spotted a solitary bird at Shilt one morning. The bird seemed lost
and uncertain, with its movements being very sluggish. The dove was
observed sitting on a branch, with no attempt being made to feed. It is
unusual to see the Little Brown Dove at 10,000 ft, so possibly the Dove
had drifted off course. The Handbook mentions that the Little Brown
Dove is also "migratory, to an unsuspected extent". Hence, possibly,
the bird had been blown of course during its migration and was
exhausted, explaining its sluggish behaviour.
562.	Himalayan Slatyheaded Parakeet		Psittacula himalayana
572.	Large Hawk-Cuckoo		Cuculus sparverioides
Chordwar, Rakhundi
Heard the bird's calls at dusk.

578.	The Cuckoo		Cuculus canorus
Heard calling in most areas. Sighting of the bird at Bakhadi, early in
the morning. Calls heard more commonly in the Bakhadi area in
comparison with the Chordwar-Rakhundi area.
580.	Himalayan Cuckoo	Cuculus saturatus
Commonly heard along with Cuculus canorus in most areas above 3000 m.
The cuckoo begins calling in the morning and can be heard throughout
the day, and can still be heard  calling well after dusk.
627.	Eagle-Owl 	Bubo bubo

623.	Spotted Scops Owl	Otus spilocephalus
Chordwar, Shilt
We heard the Owl's call from our tents through most of the night at
Chordwar. The bird's call: "tonk, tonk" was heard till dawn.
670.	Himalayan Jungle Nightjar	Caprimulgus indicus hazare
Heard the nightjar calling from our tent at Chordwar.
683.  	Himalayan Swiftlet	Collacalia brevirostris
Rakhundi, Bakhadi: the swiftlets seen in large flocks foraging above
the summit.
On the way down from Rakhundi, we saw the Himalayan Swiftlets nesting
site. On the vertical rocky cliff, a vertical slab of rock overlapped
the hillside. This formed a crack into which the Swiftlet flew
repeatedly, leading us to believe that it was nesting there. 
The Handbook confirms that the bird's nest in April in similar terrain.
763.	Black Drongo	Dicrurus adsimilis
Sai Ropa
965.	Ashy Drongo	Dicrurus leucophaeus
Sai Ropa
735.	Whitebreasted Kingfisher	Halcyon Smyrnensis
Sai Ropa to Ghusaini: heard the bird calling close to the Tirthan Nala.
763.	Hoopoe	Upapa epops
778.	Great Hill Barbet	Megalaima virens
Heard calling in all areas. Numerous sightings, too.
807.	Scalybellied Green Woodpecker	Picus squamatus
Dhingcha: sighting of a Scalybellied Green Woodpecker at 9:00 am. The
woodpecker was seen feeding in the fields! We saw the bird fly down
into cultivated fields from a tree and the woodpecker was feeding at
the field's edge for almost 10 minutes.
809.	Blacknaped Green Woodpecker	Picus canus
Shilt, Chordwar, Bakhadi
Quite a few sightings of the woodpecker. One of the birds had even got
trapped in the mist nets of the WII researchers. The bird was a
juvenile
837.	Himalayan Pied Woodpecker	Picoides himalayensis
Enroute to Shilt from Rolla, Chordwar
842.	Brown-fronted Pied Woodpecker 	Picoides auriceps
Sai Ropa: sighting of the woodpecker in conifer forest above Sai Ropa.
952.	Golden Oriole	Oriolus oriolus
Sai Ropa
Spotted a Golden Oriole on the hill slope above Sai Ropa, close to
habitation. 
994.	Brahminy Myna	Sturnus pagodarum
Sai Ropa- Ghusaini
1006.	Common Myna	Acridotheres tristis
1025.	Yellowbilled Blue Magpie	Cissa flavirostris	 
1038.	Himalayan Tree Pie	Dendrocitta formosae
Sai Ropa: Heard the bird calling first, and subsequently sighted the
Tree pie.
Kauncha: Very close to the village, we heard and then saw not one, but
3 Himalayan Tree Pies fly overhead.
1042.	Nutcracker		Nucifraga caryocatactes
Seen and heard commonly at all parts of the Park, generally between
7000 to 11,000 ft, but not necessarily so. A few sightings of the bird
at Bakhadi , tooFor all the bird watching, I have done in the Western
Himalayas, this was my first sighting of the Nutcracker. The Handbook
makes a mention of the fact that the Nutcracker is rather patchily
distributed.
The Nutcracker is active throughout the day, although more so in the
morning and evening. Its far reaching, loud call is a give away, with
the bird being heard more often than it is seen. The Nutcracker has 
1046.	Redbilled Chough	Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
Rakhundi
>From the summit, we heard a chough calling but never actually saw the
bird.
Bakhadi
The local people had told us that we would see lots of choughs at
Bakhadi and, as always they were correct. A large flock of Redbilled
Choughs (I counted at least 30 birds) descended on the thach early in
the morning (around 6:30 am) to feed. The flock of birds were noisy,
even as they fed on the thach. As the sun rose higher, the birds left,
so that after 10 am, there were no choughs to be seen. The birds were
at the thach the next morning, too, at the same time. The birds seen
feeding on the grassy patches of the thach.
The bird's distinctive call, a loud, pleasant sounding " hyuup", heard
all through the morning.
1054.	Himalayan Jungle Crow	Corvus macrorynchos intermedius
Seen at all heights from Sai Ropa to Rakhundi and Bakhadi.
1085.	Longtailed Minivet	Pericrocotus ethologus
Minivets seen quite frequently. I closely examined a few pairs to
verify their identity, and all of these birds were Longtailed Minivet
pairs, male and female.
1128.	White cheeked Bulbul	Pycnonotus leucogenys leucogenys
Sai Ropa-Ghusaini
1148.	Black Bulbul		Hypsipetes madagascarensis
Commonly seen at the lower altitudes.
1198.	Scalybreasted Wren-Babbler	Pnoepyga albiventer
Shilt
A pair of Scalybreasted Wren-Babbler spotted at dusk above Shilt. We
crossed the thach above our camping site, and crossed over the ridge to
the other side of the hill. This area had coniferous forest with Ringal
Bamboo. We sat for over an hour on a rock, at the edge of the Ringal
Bamboo waiting and watching. (hoping, of course for a Tragopan to
appear!). However, instead we were rewarding with a sighting of the
Scalybreasted Wren-Babbler instead. Initially, a single bird, hopped
onto a log, a few metres from where we sat, and immediately hopped out
of sight. About 15 minutes later, another bird appeared from behind us
and began singing. The bird's calls were replied to by the first bird.
The duet from the pair went on for quite a while. 
Chordwar
Heard the bird calling in the morning from a Ringal Bamboo patch.

1211.	Redbilled Babbler	Stachyris pyrrhops
20/4/99	Sai Ropa
Redbilled Babblers spotted in shrubbery very close to a village on the
hill slopes. A brief glimpse of the birds.

1279.	Striated Laughing Thrush	Garrulax striatus
Rolla
A brief glimpse of a solitary bird in the forest next to the Tirthan
Nala, near Rolla.

1289.	Variegated Laughing Thrush		Garrulax variegatus
Shilt-Chordwar, Rakhundi, Bakhadi
Common. The Variegated Laughing Thrush seen in small flocks in most
forests. In the Chordwar area, the thrushes were rather unobtrusive,
being heard more often than seen. The birds heard very commonly in a
patch of Ringal Bamboo near Chordwar. Sighting of the birds on Moru Oak
at 12,000 ft at Bakhadi. 
The bird's call is rather like a flutier version of the Streaked
Laughing Thrush.
1312.	Streaked Laughing Thrush		Garrulax lineatus
1324.	Redheaded Laughing Thrush	Garrulax erythrocephalus
Sai Ropa
A brief glimpse of the bird in the undergrowth.
1359.	Barthroated Siva	Minla strigula
Chordwar, Bakhadi
First sighted a pair of birds in Ringal Bamboo close to Chordwar.
Subsequently, saw some more birds below Bakhadi. 
Call notes: a melodious 2-3 noted call: "wee teeeyu " or weu weu
teeeyu".
1368.	Yellow-naped Yuhina		Yuhina flavicollis
Sai Ropa, Kharongcha, Rolla, Chordwar
Seen frequently at a height of approx. 6000-7000 ft. Lots of sightings
at Sai Ropa. Seen flitting about on Rhododendron trees. Normally pairs
of birds, sometimes in the company of other tits and warblers.
1381.	White-browed Tit-Babbler		Alcippe vinipectus
Chordwar area
Single sighting of a bird in Ringal Bamboo in the Chordwar area.
Watched the bird for a few minutes, foraging in the foliage.
1396.	Blackcapped Sibia	Heterophasia capistrata
Heard the calls of the Blackcapped Sibia quite frequently in the
forested areas. Surprisingly, only one actual sighting of a bird flying
from one tree to another at Dhingcha. 
1405.	Sooty Flycatcher		Muscicapa sibrica

1409.	Rufoustailed Flycatcher	Muscicapa ruficauda
Chordwar area
Single sighting of a bird in Ringal Bamboo in the Chordwar area.
Watched the bird for a few minutes, foraging in the foliage.
1415.	Orangegorgetted Flycatcher	Muscicapa strophiata
Very common in all areas, above approx. 10,000 ft. Not so common at
lower altitudes. Lots of indications of breeding. Spotted a pair
nesting in a hollow in a tree in the froest patch below Rakhundi. The
hollow was quite small, approx. 2 metres above the ground. Both the
male and the female seen carrying food to the nest.
The Flycatcher had a interested call note which had me baffled for
quite a while. The call note was a "wik wuk", a ventriloquistic lpw
pitched, piercing call, with a gap between the 2 notes. 
1421.	Whitebrowed Blue Flycatcher	Muscicapa superciliaris
Sai Ropa
1423.	Slaty-blue Flycatcher		Muscicapa leucomelanura
Rakhundi
Male bird seen commonly at the forest patch at Rakhundi. The forest at
the tree line at Rakhundi mainly Rhododendron, Birch and Fir. The
Flycatcher seen at the edge of the forest, early in the morning. The
Flycatcher quite wary, seen flitting from one perch to another. Seen
repeatedly in the same area the whole morning. No other sightings of
the Flycatcher during our visit at any other place.
1431.	Rufous-bellied Niltava	Muscicapa sundara 
Commonly seen and heard at lower altitudes, possibly below 8000 ft(?).
1445.	Verditer Flycatcher		Muscicapa thalassina thallasina
Sai Ropa- Ghusaini.
Rolla
1449.	Greyheaded Flycatcher	Culicicapa ceylonensis
Rolla: spotted a pair of birds close t the Tirthan nala, alongside the
road.
Chordwar area.
1450.	Yellow-bellied Fantail Flycatcher	Rhipidura hypoxantha
Bakhadi
Sighting of a pair of birds at the treeline at Bakhadi. The birds
involved in courtship display. The call notes: "chew, chew". 
Possibly another sighting of the bird at Chordwar.
1461.	Paradise Flycatcher		Terpsiphone paradisi
Sai Ropa- Ghusaini road
1478.	Strong-footed Bush-warbler		Cettia fortipes
Commonly heard at Sai Ropa, Ghusaini, Kharongcha and Rolla. Less common
at higher altitudes. However, heard the bird's calls at Bakhadi thach,
but infrequently. More frequently heard in the forests below Bakhadi. 
1486.	Rufouscapped Bush-Warbler	Cettia brunnifrons
Rolla, Chordwar, Rakhundi, Bakhadi Single sighting of a bird in Ringal
Bamboo in the Chordwar area. Watched the bird for a few minutes,
foraging in the foliage.

Heard frequently in the morning and at dusk	at higher altitudes. Heard
the bird at Rolla, close to the Tirthan Nala at approx. 6000 ft. Had an
extremely good sighting of the Bush Warbler in Ringal Bamboo near
Chordwar. Watched the bird for almost half an hour, while it foraged in
the bamboo.
At Rakhundi, the birds were silent during the day, but became very
vocal past 6:00 in the evening. The birds were heard calling
incessantly from the shrubbery.

1519.	Jungle Wren-warbler		Prinia sylvatica
Sai Ropa :Saw the wren-warbler and heard it calling along the road to
Ghusaini.
1588.	Orangebarred Leaf Warbler		Phylloscopus pulcher
Commonly seen in the higher areas. The bird's calls not heard in the
forests of Shilt and Chordwar(3000 m.) Very common at Rakhundi.
Possibly, first heard the song enroute to Rakhundi, at a height of
approx. 3300 m. At Rakhundi proper, very common at the treeline, in
forest of Birch , Moru Oak and Rhododendron. The bird's song heard
throughout the day, from early in the morning to well beyond dusk.
Bakhadi: Calls heard frequently, but not as abundant as in Rakhundi.
This could possibly be due to the fact that the forest at Bakhadi was
much lighter than at Rakhundi, resulting in lower number of insects.
Saw a pair of birds nesting in a Moru Oak tree at the treeline. The
nest was a hollow, about 30 feet above the ground. Both the birds were
carrying food to the nest site. The birds were returning to the nest
site very quickly, in less than a minute, with morsels of food.
Call notes of P. pulcher: A piercing "chik" or "pik", normally heard
from the undergrowth or up on a tree.
Song of P. pulcher: 
1594.	Pallas’s Leaf Warbler	Phylloscopus proregulus
Seen commonly. First confirmed sighting at Chordwar, amidst Ringal
bamboo.Heard the bird's song from the canopy at Chordwar on numerous
occasions.
Rakhundi: At Rakhundi, with denser forest, Phylloscopus pulcher was far
more abundant than Phylloscopus proregulus.
Bakhadi: Phylloscopus proregulus and Phylloscopus pulcher equally
common.
At Bakhadi, pairs of Phylloscopus proregulus heard calling and singing.
Obvious signs of breeding, with birds repeatedly returning to
Rhododendron bushes, where possibly a nest existed. Surprisingly, a
pair of Phylloscopus pulcher in the same Rhododendron bushes, also
nesting. I thought I noticed the beginning of a territorial fight
between the 2 species, but only briefly. Calls of both the birds heard
from the same areas frequently. Is it likely that the 2 birds have
different prey species, hence do not object to nesting close to each
other? What could be the reason for Phylloscopus pulcher being more
common at Rakhundi? Both the birds are tree haunting, so it is
surprising to find them nesting in Rhododendron?
Phylloscopus proregulus calls and songs:
Contact call notes: a mono syllabic piercing "weet".
Song: A muted and subdued "tr-r-r-r-r,sisisisi". 
1602.	Greenish Leaf Warbler	Phylloscopus trochiloides
Sighting of the leaf warbler enroute to Rakhundi.
1606.	Large-crowned Leaf Warbler		Phylloscopus occipitalis
Only a single sighting on the way down from Shilt to Rolla. Very few
calls heard at Shilt-Chordwar-Rakhundi or at Bakhadi. Is this because
the leaf warbler breeds at lower heights, or has the breeding not yet
commenced? Possibly the former for 2 reasons- 1) The lack of sightings
of the warbler between 10,000-12,000 ft. 2) I have seen breeding birds
in other parts of Himachal Pradesh (Dalhousie-Chamba area) in early May
at a height of 6500 ft.
1615.	Blackbrowed Flycatcher-Warbler		Seicercus burkii
Seen occasionally at Chordwar in Ringal bamboo. Also seen below
Bakhadi. 
Song: a melodious  and fluty 4 clear noted song: "chwee chee, chwee
chee" the 2 nd and 4 th notes being at a higher pitch. The song
repeatedly uttered. On one occasion, the bird was calling from a tree
not more than 10 feet from where we stood. We watched for almost 15
minutes before we actually spotted the bird singing, in the middle
canopy of the conifer. (Call recorded)
1617.	Greyheaded  Flycatcher-Warbler		Seicercus xanthoschistos
Sai Ropa- Ghusaini, Rolla
Commoner at lower altitudes. Few sightings above 3000 m.
At Dhingcha, we saw a nesting pair. The pair of birds had a nest in a
Berberis bush. The pair of birds repeatedly seen carrying morsels of
food into the bush.

1656.	Orange-flanked Bush Robin		Erithacus cyanurus
Shilt-Chordwar-Rakhundi-Bakhadi
Commonly seen.
1658.	Golden Bush Robin		Erithacus chrysaeus
Rakhundi
No actual sightings of the bird. However heard the call note of the
Golden Bush Robin from Rhododendron bushes at Rakhundi at dusk. The
typical croaked call "krr-r-r-r".

1675.	Bluefronted Redstart		Phoenicurus frontalis
Rakhundi, Bakhadi
A pair of birds, male and female seen at a rocky area below the
Rakhundi summit. The birds were seen in the evening in the area, but
only briefly. The Redstarts flew away after a few minutes of
observation. Saw the same birds on Rhododendron a little while later.
At Bakhadi, the Redstart was seen at the treeline, in the forest patch.
1679.	Plumbeous Redstart		Rhyacornis fulginosus
Sai Ropa. Seen very commonly along the Tirthan Nala.
1684.	Little Forktail	Enicurus scouleri
Rolla
A solitary bird seen at Tirthan Nala.
1688.	Spotted Forktail	Enicurus maculatus
Rolla
A solitary bird seen foraging at Tirthan Nala.
1705.	Dark Grey Bush Chat	Saxicola ferrea
1716.	River Chat			Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
1723.	Blueheaded Rock Thrush	Monticola cinclorhynchus
A male bird seen in the forest above Sai Ropa
1729.	Himalayan Whistling Thrush		Myiophonus caeruleus
Sai Ropa
1734.	Orangeheaded Ground Thrush	Zoothera citrina cyanotus
Chordwar: a brief glimpse of the White-throated Orangeheaded Ground
Thrush scrabbling on the ground.
1740.	Longtailed Mountain Thrush	Zoothera dixoni
Sightings of the Longtailed Mountain Thrush at Chordwar and below
Bakhadi. At, Rakhundi, we spotted a pair of bird in a dense forested
area. The birds were possibly nesting, as they repeated kept returning
to the same area. The birds double wing bars were quite indistinct and
it took quite a while for us to ascertain the same. The bird had a
peculiar habit of cocking its tail, like a flycatcher. The thrush seen
on the ground as well as bushes and trees, but on lower branches.
The bird seen at Bakhadi was in similar terrain, and the cocking of the
tail happened again. 
1749.	Whitecollared Blackbird	Turdus albocinctus
Chordwar-Shilt area, Rakhundi, Bakhadi
Commonly seen bird, getting active and noisy in the early morning and
at dusk in forested areas.
1763.	Blackthroated Thrush	Turdus ruficollis atrigularis 
Shilt, Bakhadi
Blackthroated Thrush first seen when the birds came to roost on a bush
at the thach at Shilt. 6-7 birds gathered together on a bare branch of
a small bush about 20 metres from the hut at dusk. 
Likewise, at Bakhadi, the thrushes used to roost on the branches of a
leafless tree in the thach. During the day, the thrushes seen feeding
on the thach at Bakhadi. 
1768.	Mistle Thrush		Turdus viscivorus
Bakhadi
Mistle Thrushes seen occasionally at the treeline and on the thach at
Bakhadi.
1770.	The Wren	Trogolodytes troglodytes
Rakhundi, Shilt
Spotted a wren in a rocky area quite close to the summit of Rakhundi.
The wren was actively hunting for food amongst the rocks, popping up to
perch on a rock, calling loudly, only to suddenly drop out of sight.
Another sighting of the bird at the treeline near Shilt at dusk.
1775.	Brown Dipper		Cinclus pallasi
Sai Ropa: Tirthan Nala. The courtship display of the Brown Dipper seen.
Rolla: Commonly seen on Tirthan Nala between Rolla and Kharongcha.
1794.	Grey Tit	Parus major
Sai Ropa
1799.	Green-backed Tit	Parus monticolus

1802.	Crested Black Tit	Parus melanocephalus

1804.	Simla Black Tit	Parus rufonuchalis

*1805.	Rufousbellied Crested Tit	Parus rubidiventris
Enroute to Rakhundi. Spotted the tits along with leaf warblers, feeding
on a bush, well below the treeline. The birds lacked wingbars, had
greyish patches along the flanks and a very light rufous belly. (the
rufous much lighter than shown in the Pictorial Guide). Spotted the
birds again on quite a few occasions- at Rakhundi and Bakhadi, at the
treeline. This is an extension of its range as mentioned in the
Handbook. Gaston, Garsen and Pandey's report (Forktail 9 (1993) 45:57,
also makes a mention of the bird in the Tirthan Valley.
*1808.	Brown Crested Tit	Parus dichrous
On the way down from Rakhundi. Just below the treeline is a dense patch
of conifers. At this spot, we spotted a pair of Brown Crested Tits
along with leaf warblers. We watched the birds for almost 10 minutes as
they fed in the foliage.
1818.	Red-headed Tit	Aegithalos concinnus
Sai Ropa- Ghusaini area.
*1822.	Whitethroated Tit	Aegithalos niveogularis
Chordwar area: first spotted the Whitethroated Tit on a Maple Tree near
Chordwar. A small flock of birds. Subsequently sighted the birds in the
same area repeatedly. Sightings of the birds higher up enroute to
Rakhundi, too. However, no sightings of the tit in the Bakhadi area.
1832.	White-cheeked Nuthatch	Sitta leucopsis
Bakhadi: Heard the call of the White-cheeked Nuthatch on numerous
occasions. However, we had a clear sighting of the bird at Bakhadi, on
a Moru oak tree at the edge of the thach. Subsequently heard the bird
calling in the forest. The next morning, we heard the Nuthatch calling
at 6:00 a.m.

845.	Himalayan Tree Creeper	Certhia himalayensis
A few sightings of the bird at Chordwar, Rakhundi and Bakhadi. At
Rakhundi, heard the bird singing in the evening and recorded its call.
No sightings of the Nepal Tree-Creeper, though, there have been a few
recent sightings of the bird in Ghusaini and the Tirthan valley.
1865.	Vinaceous-breasted Pipit	Anthus roseatus
1884.	Grey Wagtail			Motacilla cinerea
Sai Ropa: Grey Wagtails seen in breeding plumage.
1927.	Yellowbacked Sunbird	Aethopyga siparaja
Sai Ropa
Sighting of a male Yellowbacked Sunbird, on the hillside above Sai
Ropa. 
1933.	White-eye			Zosterops palpebrosa
Sai Ropa
1938.	House Sparrow	Passer domesticus
1946.	Cinnamon Tree Sparrow	Passer rutilans
Sai Ropa
1982.     Black-and-Yellow Grosbeak	Mycerobas icterioides

2015.	Nepal Rosefinch		Carpodacus nipalensis
Rakhundi, Chordwar, Bakhadi
Both male and female birds spotted early in the morning (before 6:30
am) , at the treeline on Birch trees, at Rakhundi(12,000 ft) on both
the days we spent in the area. The birds not seen in the area during
the day. We presumed that the birds moved lower down during the day to
feed. This was confirmed by a sighting of a pair of birds in Ringal
Bamboo at Chordwar(10,000 ft), below the Rakhundi area. Is it possible
that the finches moved down attitudinally to feed?
The Handbook mentions the Nepal Rosefinch as "uncommon" in the Western
Himalayas. This status needs to be re-examined. I recall the bird being
quite common in Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary in U.P.
The Handbook confirms that the bird feeds on bushes as well as on
trees. It also mentions that the bird seen breeding in Ringal Bamboo.
Wonder if the presence of a pair of birds on Ringal Bamboo might
suggest breeding.
Nepal Rosefinches also seen at Bakhadi.
2017.	Pinkbrowed Rosefinch	Carpodacus rhodochrous

2039.	Redheaded Bullfinch		Pyrrhula erythrocephala
Sighting of a flock of 4-5 birds on Birch at Rakhundi, at the treeline.
Seen early in the morning on 2 consecutive days. 
2051	Rock Bunting		Emberiza cia

Sai Ropa- Ghusaini road.

Mammal sightings in the Great Himalayan National Park
Himalayan Tahr			Hemitragus jemlahicus
Rakhundi: A marvelous sighting of  5 Himalayan Tahr at Rakundi. At 4:30
p.m., I spotted movement on the summit of Rakhundi, about a hundred
metres from our camp site. On looking through the binoculars, I
realised that the animals were Himalayan Tahr. The Tahr crossed the
thach at Rakhundi, enabling us to observe them for almost 15 minutes.
The Tahr walked across at a leisurely pace, as though they had all the
time in the world.

Goral					Nemorhaedus goral
Rolla: a sighting of a Goral early in the morning, peering at us from
the ridge above, on the banks of the Tirthan Nala. The Goral was
silhouetted against the sky as he peered down at us.

Himalayan Mouse-Hare		Ochtotana roylei
Rakhundi: a brief glimpse at the Pika, peeking out from behind a rock
on  a boulder strewn hill slope at Rakhundi, well above the treeline.

Himalayan Yellow-throated Marten	Martes flavigula
Rakhundi: The Marten seen hunting on the same boulder strewn hill slope
as above.

Shrew?: caught a glimpse of a shrew on the barren hill slopes of
Rakhundi. On the hill slope, there were numerous burrows, which must
have been of the shrew. The burrows were peculiar, with a small
excavated tunnel leading to every burrow. 
The Grey Langur
Rhesus Macaque
Bats?

Prepared by Sanjay and Anchal Sondhi
B 1 , Siddeshwar Heights, ITI Road, Aundh, Pune 411007
Tel: 020 5885717
Email: sondhi@yahoo.com

Nomenclature as per Handbook of Birds of India and Pakistan by Ali and
Ripley


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