Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 11:46:48 -0300 (BST)
From: Richard Fairbank
To: ebn@otax.tky.hut.fi
Subject: Ladakh (1982!) long
Ladakh (21 June to 8 July 1982)
The following is in response to the recent request for
Ladakhi trip lists. I have been meaning to type this up for
years so thanks for the excuse to do part of it. It is very
dated but I am giving it wider circulation in case it is of
any interest to others. Apologies for not including Latin
names. If you e-mail me with any queries on bird names I
can look them up.
Nick Preston, Dave Mills (subsequent founder of Naturetrek)
and I visited Ladakh towards the end of a six month trip in
summer 1982. We went on to spend 2 weeks in Kashmir before
returning home. Dave, Colin Winyard and I had earlier
visited peninsular Malaysia (for approx. 5 weeks where we
met up with Steve Gantlett on his way round the world in the
opposite direction), Thailand (2 weeks, Steve staying on to
go to Philippines), Nepal (15 weeks, joined by Nick after
first month, and occasionally meeting up with other British
birders including Jon Eames, Dave Farrow, Richard Grimmett,
Tim & Carol Inskipp, Rod Martins, Craig Robson & James
Wolstencroft who were in Nepal at that time) and Himachel
Pradesh (1 week with most of those previously mentioned). I
personally saw 866 species while I was away, 168 being new
for me and the whole trip cost just pounds sterling 1300 -
happy days indeed!
Looking back at my notes now I am surprised, and a little
disappointed, by the amount of time not spent birding in
Ladakh. The only excuse I can offer is that our visit was
towards the end of a longer trip and travelling around was
very time consuming (also the places one was able to visit
was restricted). In total we saw just 81 species although
they did include 4 which we believe to be new for Ladakh
(River Tern, Nightjar, Spanish Sparrow and Linnet). The
other highlights were Himalayan Snowcock, Ibisbill, breeding
Lesser Sand Plover, Robin Accentor, Sulphur-bellied Warbler,
Wallcreeper, Mongolian Desert Finch and Red-mantled and
Great Rosefinches. The following diary extracts, species
lists and estimates of numbers are my personal ones.
21 June 1982: bus Zoji La to Kargil
Diary: Got to bus station in Srinagar at 08.25 after late
breakfast. Bus due to leave at 09.00 departed at 09.30 only
to go as far as depot where tyres pumped up and filled with
petrol! Returned to bus station and finally departed at
10.15. Sides of Vale of Kashmir very alpine then steep
climb up to Zoji La and over into Ladakh. Very treacherous
road with poor surface, only recently opened after winter
snows. Ladakh very reminiscent of Altas Mountains in
Morocco with mud plastered on sides of houses. Very barren
and rugged scenery with only any green where irrigated,
usually beside rivers. The road is a major engineering
achievement, with hairpin bends down almost sheer mountains.
Not for the faint hearted (like me)! Slow progress,
especially after dark due to bus ahead breaking down.
Arrived Kargil 22.05. Convoy system over pass probable
reason for late start; up traffic only allowed in
afternoon. Passed large number (100's) of army trucks on
way down.
Birds (seen mainly from bus): Kestrel 1, River Tern 1,
Nightjar 1 male, Citrine Wagtail 2, Brown Dipper 1, River
Chat 1, Blue Rock Thrush 1, Magpie 3, House Sparrow 5.
22 June: bus Kargil to Leh
Diary: Bus allegedly leaving at 05.30 but didn't go until
06.45. A long day but interesting. Long delays due to army
again, at one stage a crashed army truck blocked the road
for an hour or so. Arrived at Leh at 20.00 just after dark.
Encouraged by a very elegant lady in Ladakhi dress to stay
at Ti-Sei Lodge which proved to be excellent (one of the
best lodges of the whole trip).
Birds (seen from bus and around villages where made food
stops): Tufted Duck 1, Kestrel 2, Rock Dove 25, Blue Hill
Pigeon 30, Rufous Turtle Dove 3, Hoopoe 2, Crag Martin 3,
Citrine Wagtail 2, White Wagtail 4, Black Redstart 8, Desert
Wheatear 2, Eastern Pied (Variable) Wheatear 7 males, Blue
Rock Thrush 3, Blue Whistling Thrush 2, Mountain Chiffchaff
1, Great Tit 1, Magpie 25, Alpine Chough 15, Chough 5, House
Sparrow 50, Tibetan Snow Finch 7, Red-fronted Serin 5,
Mongolian Desert Finch 1 probable, Scarlet Rosefinch 30,
Great Rosefinch 3 prob., Rock Bunting 1.
23 June: Leh
Diary: Didn't get up until 09.00, nice to have an easy day
wandering around town (tourist office, post office, rather
poor restaurant). Walked out of Leh to north with Nick and
wandered into the desert and around the back of the royal
palace. Superb scenery.
Birds: Kestrel 1, Hobby 1, Chukar 1, Rock Dove 20, Swift 4,
Hoopoe 4, Black Redstart 4, Mountain Chiffchaff 1, Great Tit
1, Magpie 5, Chough 2, Carrion Crow 1, House Sparrow 50,
Tibetan Snow Finch 4, Red-fronted Serin 3, Mongolian Desert
Finch 15.
24 June: Tikse/Choglamsar
Diary: Breakfast at 07.00 and out to catch 08.00 bus to
Tikse to find it had left at 07.45! Got on 08.15 bus to
Shey which actually went half way between Shey and Tikse.
Wandered over the desert and around the back of Tikse
Monastery. Very impressive from outside. Nick and I left
Dave to go in, preferring to keep wander round the desert
before walking down to the River Indus and following it back
to Shey. Then walked along the road towards Leh as far as
the Stok turn off at Choglamsar seeing Ibisbill on the river
there. Got a bus back to Leh, arriving at Ti-Sei at 18.30.
Birds: Black Kite 1, Lammergeyer 1, Hobby 2, Chukar heard,
Ibisbill 2, Gull-billed Tern 1, Common Tern 3, Rock Dove 20,
Blue Hill Pigeon 1, Swift 10, Hoopoe 10, Swallow 4, Red-
rumped Swallow 1, House Martin 10, Hume's Short-toed Lark
15, Small Sky Lark 6, Citrine Wagtail 10, White Wagtail 6,
Black Redstart 20, Desert Wheatear 7, Blue Rock Thrush 2,
Hume's Lesser Whitethroat 2, Mountain Chiffchaff 20, Great
Tit 1, Magpie 15, Chough 6, Carrion Crow 4, Raven 3, House
Sparrow 100, Tibetan Snow Finch 2, Mongolian Desert Finch
12.
25 June: Leh
Diary: Breakfast at 07.00 and out to catch 08.00 bus to
Stok but despite arriving 5 minutes early it had gone.
While dithering over what to do all other remaining buses
also departed! Walked into hills along Beacon Highway to
north of Leh but did not see much (Himalayan Snowcocks being
the highlight). Returned to Ti-Sei early afternoon and sat
around lethargically for rest of day (not feeling too
healthy - head cold and stomach). Put to shame by Nick who
went back out, although did not see anything different.
Birds: Himalayan Snowcock 5 (3 and 2), Chukar 8, Rock Dove
10, Blue Hill Pigeon 1, Hoopoe 4, Black Redstart 8, Mountain
Chiffchaff heard, Great Tit 1, Magpie 5, Chough 2, Carrion
Crow 1, House Sparrow 75, Tibetan Snow Finch 12, Red-fronted
Serin 4, Mongolian Desert Finch 20.
26 June: Tikse/Shey
Diary: Got 07.45 bus to Tikse and found the 'resident'
group of ringers from Southampton University. They quickly
dispelled any illusions I might have had of seeing Tibetan
Sandgrouse as only seen once by one member of their group in
18 months, and that in mid winter. Sorted out
identification of Hume's Short-toed Lark. Walked back along
the river to Stok where got bus back to Leh. Another
excellent meal at Ti-Sei Lodge.
Birds: Booted Eagle 1, Hobby 1, Ibisbill 2, Green Sandpiper
1, Common Tern 3, Rock Dove 40, Blue Hill Pigeon 10, Swift
40, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater 1, Hoopoe 5, Crag Martin 1,
Swallow 4, Red-rumped Swallow 6, House Martin 5, Hume's
Short-toed Lark 10, Citrine Wagtail 10, White Wagtail 15,
Bluethroat 5, Black Redstart 8, Stonechat 1, Desert Wheatear
1 female, Hume's Lesser Whitethroat 6, Mountain Chiffchaff
25, Rufous-backed Shrike 1, Magpie 20, Chough 3, Carrion
Crow 4, Raven 2, House Sparrow 50, Scarlet Rosefinch 10.
27 June: Stok Gorge
Diary: Breakfast at 06.45 and got bus to Stok (it actually
left 5 minutes late). Walked through fields above the
village and into the gorge where Nick and I walked up for 2-
3 hours before returning. Saw Wallcreepers at nest site -
brilliant. Walked back to Choglamsar and hitched a ride
with an army truck halfway back to Leh. Walked rest. Poor
day weatherwise with rain mid morning and again mid
afternoon and cold east wind late afternoon. Typically I
had forgotten to take my waterproof.
Birds: Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Golden Eagle 2, Kestrel
1, Chukar 4, Green Sandpiper 1, Common Tern 2, Rock Dove 50,
Blue Hill Pigeon 40, Swift 10, Hoopoe 4, Crag Martin 10,
Small Sky Lark 4, Citrine Wagtail 1, Grey Wagtail 1, White
Wagtail 10, Dipper 3, Black Redstart 30, River Chat 3, Blue
Rock Thrush 2, Sulphur-bellied Warbler 2, Mountain
Chiffchaff 3, Wallcreeper 3, Magpie 15, Alpine Chough 10,
Chough 8, Carrion Crow 2, Raven 1 probable, House Sparrow
50, Tibetan Snow Finch 15, Red-fronted Serin 15, Linnet 1,
Hodgson's Mountain Finch 2, Rock Bunting 2.
28 June: Leh/Gompa
Diary: Up for latish breakfast (07.00) as not going
anywhere by bus. Nick and I walked through fields above Leh
to Sangkar where sat in sun for an hour watching bushes at
edge of fields (and were rewarded with a female Red-mantled
Rosefinch). Returned after only 4 hours birding. Relaxed
afternoon; wrote a few cards and booked a bus to Kargil for
2nd July. Cut my hair rather drastically as beginning to
look too much like some of the hippies hanging out in Leh.
Dave, still on monastery kick, visited Spituk.
Birds: Kestrel 1, Chukar heard, Rock Dove 60, Blue Hill
Pigeon 10, Rufous Turtle Dove 2, Swift 4, Hoopoe 6, Crag
Martin 8, Small Sky Lark 4, Citrine Wagtail 2, Black
Redstart 10, Mountain Chiffchaff 4, Great Tit 1, Rufous
Backed-Shrike 1, Magpie 10, Chough 1, Carrion Crow 2, House
Sparrow 50, Tibetan Snow Finch 8, Red-fronted Serin 2,
Mongolian Desert Finch 4, Red-mantled Rosefinch 1 female,
Scarlet Rosefinch 3.
29 June: Shey/Tikse
Diary: Nick and I returned to Tikse to revisit ringing
group just catching bus to Shey after a latish breakfast.
Good mornings birding with usual wade across creek. Spent 4
hours very pleasantly chatting and getting gen on various
places then walked back to Shey arriving at 17.30, getting
18.00 bus back to Leh.
Birds: Night Heron 1, Pintail 1 female, Black Kite 1, Hobby
5, Ibisbill 3, Little Ringed Plover 1, Green Sandpiper 1,
Common Tern 3, Rock Dove 10, Blue Hill Pigeon 2, Swift 6,
Hoopoe 1, Swallow 6, Red-rumped Swallow 11, Hume's Short-
toed Lark 10, Small Sky Lark 1, Citrine Wagtail 10, White
Wagtail 10, Bluethroat 9, Black Redstart 5, Stonechat 2,
Hume's Lesser Whitethroat 6, Mountain Chiffchaff 20, Great
Tit 1, Magpie 10, Chough 2, Carrion Crow 2, Raven 1, House
Sparrow 50, Scarlet Rosefinch 4.
30 June: Hemis
Diary: visit to Hemis festival. Breakfast soon after 06.30
and got to bus station in time for 07.30 bus to Hemis (seem
to be no buses anywhere else today). Arrived 09.30 after
ludicrous stop at army checkpost on way. Lots of people in
crowd, especially Ladakhi women in full dress, but managed
to get a reasonable vantage point for first programme of
dances. Masks very colourful but dances do not appear to be
very lively and tend to go on a bit - didn't understand
anything but worth seeing. Very hot. Second half after 2
hour lunch break. Much better view from floor of courtyard
where dancing but uncomfortable and very dusty do glad when
finally over. Hurried down to get bus back to Leh but none
in sight. Ended up in back of a truck to Choglamsar - very
dusty. Once there walked 1.5 km's towards Leh before
hitching on a breakdown lorry, arriving back at 19.50 just
in time for dinner!
Birds (mainly from bus): Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1
probable, Sparrowhawk 1, Hobby 1, Rock Dove 15, Blue Hill
Pigeon 4, Bee-eater 2, Hoopoe 2, Crag Martin 3, Grey Wagtail
1, White Wagtail 2, Black Redstart 4, Mountain Chiffchaff
heard, Magpie 4, House Sparrow 30.
1 July: Leh
Diary: Dave up early and back to Hemis, Nick and I though
one visit was sufficient and had a more relaxed breakfast at
08.00. Got notes and diary up to date, wrote a few cards
and walked down to bus station where got tickets for Kargil.
Visited post office and library to catch up on news and
check a few things in Indian Handbook (states 'sight records
[of Hume's Short-toed Lark] ... are worthless'). Back to
lodge then walked around the back of the Royal Palace for 2
hours, our only birding of the day, returning at 17.00.
Birds: Kestrel 1, Chukar 1, Rock Dove 20, Blue Hill Pigeon
1, Rufous Turtle Dove 2, Hoopoe 3, Grey Wagtail 1, Black
Redstart 1, Mountain Chiffchaff heard, Great Tit 1, Magpie
6, Chough 2, Carrion Crow 2, House Sparrow 40, Tibetan Snow
Finch 6, Red-fronted Serin 5, Mongolian Desert Finch 11.
2 July: bus Leh to Kargil
Diary: Up at 05.30 for bus departure at 06.00. Left at
06.30 (clearly not a run Ladakhi bus) and held up at
roadwork's for an hour and a half at 10.00. Then usual
delays due to convoys and finally the army attempted to
recover a truck that had crashed a week earlier, delaying us
for a further hour before they gave up. Finally got to
Kargil at 20.00. Got hotel room and found out where to get
truck to Rangdom. Went to bed at 21.30 but disturbed at
22.30, 23.30 and 03.30 by other noisy arrivals and
departures.
Birds (seen from bus and around villages where made food
stops): Rock Dove 50, Blue Hill Pigeon 10, Hoopoe 10, Crag
Martin 2, Hume's Short-toed Lark 6, Citrine Wagtail 2, White
Wagtail 2, Black Redstart 10, Desert Wheatear 1 male, River
Chat 1, Blue Rock Thrush 2, Blue Whistling Thrush 1,
Mountain Chiffchaff 2, Magpie 10, Alpine Chough 15, Chough
4, Carrion Crow 2, Raven 4, House Sparrow 50, Tibetan Snow
Finch 8, Scarlet Rosefinch 15, Great Rosefinch 2 probable,
Rock Bunting 1.
3 July: truck Kargil to Zuildo
Diary: Up at 04.15 and on truck at 04.30. Truck very full
to start with before any people got on. Perched
precariously on cargo with lots of others (many French).
Departed at 05.05, very long and uncomfortable ride, at
times quite frightening as followed poor track along river
valley and through some steep gorges. Long, 2.5 hour, lunch
stop in middle of nowhere. Finally arrived at Zuildo at
18.15, the river valley having opened out onto a rather
flat, but in places boggy, plain. Zuildo is a small
collection of mud huts, a small marquee type tent and a
recently built one roomed wooden house on which we were
invited to sleep (concrete floor)! Area looks to have great
potential as river valley Cold, though despite early fears
some food is available. Likely to be 3 days before truck
returns.
Birds (mainly from truck): Rock Dove 30, Blue Hill Pigeon
10, Rufous Turtle Dove 4, Swift 10, Hoopoe 5, Crag Martin 1,
House Martin 1, Hume's Short-toed Lark 2, Small Sky Lark 1,
Shore Lark 6, Citrine Wagtail 4, White Wagtail 3, Robin
Accentor 1, Black Redstart 15, River Chat 1, Blue Rock
Thrush 1, Sulphur-bellied Warbler 1, Mountain Chiffchaff
heard, Magpie 10, Alpine Chough 15, House Sparrow 60,
Scarlet Rosefinch 15, Rock Bunting 10.
4 July: Zuildo/Rangdom
Diary: After leisurely breakfast (eggs!) slowly walked to
Rangdom Gompa across the 'swamp' making numerous detours
firstly to avoid marshy areas and later, where more stony,
wide rivers. Ended up wading across a couple of times but
soon dried in sun. Impressive scenery, especially the stony
plain which looks more like I would imagine Tibet to be than
the more fertile and much steeper Indus. Excellent views of
breeding Lesser Sand Plovers and 3 Twite the highlights.
Back to Zuildo at 17.45 and reasonable meal of rice and
chapatis.
Birds: Goosander 1 female, Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1,
Golden Eagle 2, Himalayan Snowcock heard, Lesser Sand Plover
6 and 1 chick, Redshank 4, Green Sandpiper 1, Blue Hill
Pigeon 15, Swift 2, Hume's Short-toed Lark 6, Small Sky Lark
3, Shore Lark 25, Citrine Wagtail 30, Robin Accentor 15,
Black Redstart 10, Sulphur-bellied Warbler 1, Mountain
Chiffchaff 10, Alpine Chough 20, Chough 21, Raven 5, House
Sparrow 40, Tibetan Snow Finch 4, Red-fronted Serin 8, Twite
3 (Tibetan), Hodgson's Mountain Finch 40, Brandt's Mountain
Finch 6, Scarlet Rosefinch 20, Great Rosefinch 4, Rock
Bunting 1.
5 July: Zuildo Gorge
Diary: Heard Himalayan Snowcock before breakfast again.
Must be on hill above but no end of scanning fails to pick
one up. Breakfast then walked up river valley/gorge to
north of Zuildo with two icy river crossings on way up which
fortunately managed to avoid on return. 2 Wallcreepers and
Sulphur-bellied Warblers common! Cold wind blowing up
valley. Back to Zuildo soon after 16.00 finding two pairs
of Spanish Sparrows around the huts. Time spent birding is
getting shorter!
Birds: Lammergeyer 2, Himalayan Snowcock heard, Blue Hill
Pigeon 10, Swift 4, Crag Martin 4, Small Sky Lark 2, Shore
Lark 20, Citrine Wagtail 10, White Wagtail 1, Rosy Pipit 1,
Dipper 1, Robin Accentor 5, Black Redstart 10, Blue Rock
Thrush 3, Sulphur-bellied Warbler 14, Mountain Chiffchaff 2,
Wallcreeper 2, Alpine Chough 10, Chough 25, Raven 4, House
Sparrow 30, Spanish Sparrow 4 (2 males and 2 females),
Tibetan Snow Finch 2, Hodgson's Mountain Finch 50, Scarlet
Rosefinch 2.
6 July: truck Zuildo to Parkachik
Diary: Walked down river a short way before returning to
Zuildo at 12.00 just in case the truck is early. It arrived
at 15.00 and left at 16.00. No cargo and many fewer
passengers and seemed to go faster than on the way up but
many delays due to oncoming vehicles and regular filling up
of leaky radiator. The driver nearly driving the truck off
the track and down a very steep slope into the river 1000
feet below caused a further delay while the track was
mended/built up under the left front wheel which had been
left in space. The first Nick and I knew of this incident
was when all the locals dived out the back of the truck,
Dave who was on the cab roof, doing likewise via Nick's
head! Arrived at Parkachik somewhat relieved at 20.00 and
slept on porch of the rest house there.
Birds: Ruddy Shelduck 3, Goosander 2, Lammergeyer 1,
Himalayan Griffon Vulture 1, Hobby 1, Lesser Sand Plover 9,
Redshank 1, Common Tern 1, Blue Hill Pigeon 10, Snow Pigeon
1, Swift 4, House Martin 1, Small Sky Lark 4, Shore Lark 15,
Citrine Wagtail 10, White Wagtail 3, Rosy Pipit 1, Robin
Accentor 3, Black Redstart 20, Mountain Chiffchaff 4, Alpine
Chough 15, Chough 2, Raven heard, House Sparrow 50, Tibetan
Snow Finch 3, Red-fronted Serin 4, Goldfinch 1, Hodgson's
Mountain Finch 20, Scarlet Rosefinch 1.
7 July: truck Parkachik to Kargil
Diary: Up at 06.00, truck left at 07.00 and arrived at
Kargil at 15.00. A very rough ride, at times getting thrown
around everywhere, but less scary than previous truck rides.
Spend couple of hours birding treacherous scree slopes above
Zuildo seeing a few wheatears but little else of note.
Another poor lodge in Kargil, certainly one of the least
impressive towns I've had the misfortune to stay in.
Birds: Kestrel 1, Hobby 1, Rock Dove 10, Snow Pigeon 1,
Rufous Turtle Dove 4, Swift 30, Hoopoe 8, Crag Martin 1,
House Martin 4, Small Sky Lark 1 Citrine Wagtail 4, White
Wagtail 6, Black Redstart 40, Pied Wheatear 5, Eastern Pied
Wheatear 1 female, Blue Rock Thrush 10, Mountain Chiffchaff
8, Magpie 15, Alpine Chough 25,Raven 1, House Sparrow 100,
Red-fronted Serin 2, Goldfinch 1, Scarlet Rosefinch 8.
8 July: bus Kargil to Zoji La
Diary: Up at 03.45 and found bus at end of road, it
amazingly left only 10 minutes late (at 04.30). Crossed
over Zoji La and arrived at Sonamarg on edge of Vale of
Kashmir at 10.35. Not as worrying coming down the pass as I
had feared but I was sitting on the inside of the bus and so
couldn't see how steep some of the slopes were. Very rough
ride due to road surface but surprisingly no long delays.
Birds (from bus): Lammergeyer 1, Black Redstart 1, Eastern
Pied Wheatear 1 male, Large-billed Crow 1.
Richard Fairbank
19 Crown Road
Shoreham-by-Sea
West Sussex
England
E-Mail: R.J.Fairbank@sussex.ac.uk
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