Leh 19-22 June 2001.

by

Bill Harvey [billharvey@mantraonline.com]

Just got back from 3 days fairly gentle birding from Leh. Although only 44 full species 
in that time, many were quality birds that I don't often see breeding. 

I used Krys' and Raj Singh's guide to plan (very useful) and covered both sides of the 
valley from Choglamsar to Karu, Hemis, Stok and the road to Alchi (including many of the 
best monasteries!). The most important point to note is that the army are much more in 
evidence (after Kargil) and occupy much more land and road space. But I had no problems 
from them. Also, though I haven't been there before, I found the Chogmalsar-Shey-Tikse a
rea (north of Indus) very fenced and walled up with access, especially to the river, 
often very difficult and involving much wading and climbing thorn barriers. It looked 
like there has been a big increase in land acquistion there. 

On the south side, especially around Sushot and between Shey and Tikse (where there is 
a road bridge over the river by the way which the maps seem to have missed), much easier 
with lovely country-side and fewer, thinner thorn hedges! In the hills, I strongly 
recommend Pyang as well as Stok and Alchi for the sheer beauty of the surroundings. 

Now to the birds;

Duck; nothing on river. On ponds near Spitok, Pochard (4 m) and single pairs of 
Red-crested Pochard, Tufted Duck and Coot. They looked very settled! 4 Pintail near 
Choglamsar, Moorhens at Shey.

Galliformes and Waders; Chukar very common and noisy especially near Stok, Pyang and 
on road to Nimu. Only waders were,eventually, 2 Ibisbill on shingle banks 500m apart 
near Shushot. One seemed to have a sitting bird nearby and called a persistent, 
rapid "wicka, tik, tik" when I got too close. They are clearly no longer easy on the 
traditional stretch, if they ever were. Single Common Tern there.

Pigeons. Rock Pigeons extremely common. Hill Pigeons common near Stok (feeding in 
village fields with Red-billed Choughs) and west of Spitok. Snow Pigeons, 3 circling 
in Stok Gorge. Oriental Turtle Doves common where trees.

Raptors. Several Common Kestrels. Single adult Barbary (Peregrine) Falcon behaving 
as if possibly breeding above Stok (I'll do a separate note as this would be unusual 
for India I think). A Golden Eagle along high peaks above Stok and a Himalayan Griffon 
similarly above Alchi. Nought else.

Crows; Black-billed Magpies very common and Carrion Crows reasonably so esp in valley. 
Red-billed Choughs quite common round several villages and army camps and in Leh. 
Yellow-billed Choughs only in Stok Gorge where 50+.

Aerials; Only species were Common Swifts along Indus and above Stok and Eurasian 
Crag Martins near Karu and in Stok Gorge. 

Others; Hoopoes and Golden Orioles fairly common in Valley and villages.

Thrushes etc; Black Redstart extremely widespread and breeding. Bluethroats 
(red, white and nil spotted) breeding commonly in vegetated parts of valley. 
Blue Whistling Thrushes at Saspol, Blue Rock Thrushes at Sabboo and Pyang and two 
very striking male Desert Wheatears above Nimu.

Warblers; Mountain Chiffchaffs one of the commonest species of all singing wherever 
there were trees but frequently feeding on ground including pebble beds. Found one 
nest lined entirely with black feathers. Hume's Lesser Whitethroat common along green 
parts of Indus. Song quite different from nominate race.

Wagtails; Calcarata Citrine commonly nesting in open areas along valley and near 
villages. Some citreola seen also. Alboides White Wagtails very common nesting along 
Indus especially, with personata scarcer and seemingly on smaller streams.

Larks; Oriental Sky singing over cereals in valley. Hume's Short-toed not uncommon 
on stone deserts near Karu and between Pyang and Nimu. Certainly nesting.

Seed-eaters; House Sparrows abundant even right up to the scree edges and in open 
stone deserts. Few Russet Sparrows in valley. Tibetan Snowfiches seen near Karu 
and several pairs apparently nesting in Stok Gorge. Mongolian Finches only near 
Karu where common. Also there a pair of Brandt's Mountain Finch in full breeding 
plumage and seen to mate. Plain Mountain Finches only in Stok, drinking in stream 
in village. Fire-fronted Serins very common breeding in valley but also right up 
to scree edges. Common Rosefiches (some exceptionally bright red males) common in 
green valley and breeding.

I apologise for the length of this note but its an area perhaps not often reported 
from in mid-summer, regards Bill