Trip report: Wild Ass Sanctuary (WAS) - Little Rann of Kutch, Dhrangadra, Gujarat, India
Dates: 30th December 1999 to 2nd January 2000
By: Sanjay Sondhi 

How to get there: The WAS is 16 km. from the town of Dhrangadra. I got to Dhrangadra by bus from
Ahmedabad. From Dhrangadra, it is essential to take a vehicle, preferably a jeep to enter the
sanctuary. The vastness of the sanctuary, and its bleak terrain, makes travelling on foot
impossible.
The Wild Ass Sanctuary in the Little Rann of Kutch is a fascinating vast stretch of flat, salt
cracked barren desert in the western state of Gujarat. The Kutch is named on account of the
similarity of its shape to the kucchua or tortoise. The sanctuary is 4953 sq. km in size, and was
established in 1973. The Little Rann of Kutch is formed through the process of siltation of the
marine estuary of the Gulf of Kutch. During the monsoon, the sea rises, and the entire sanctuary
becomes a vast shallow sheet of water, from the discharge of river and rainwater, mixed with the
seawater. During the monsoons, thousands of birds feast on a variety of marine life. As the
monsoons recede, the water dries up, to leave a barren desert, with a flat, salt covered and
cracked earth, on which driving is a pleasure! 
This unique ecosystem is home to the endemic Indian Wild Ass Equus hemonius khur. With a
population of only approx. 2000, the Little Rann of Kutch is the last home of the Indian Wild Ass.
The Wild Asses were seen quite commonly in the fringe areas, in herds of up to 10 animals,
normally females and mares. Males are normally solitary animals, and can be seen standing alone,
or at the edge of a herd of asses.
The Wild Asses feed on Prosopis fruit, and as this abounds on the sanctuary fringe, the population
of the asses is quite high. The Wild Asses also feed on various species of Sueda, which is a
succulent plant which grows quite commonly in the kutch. It leaf is succulent, and very salty in
taste. I was able to photograph the Wild Ass on foot, with the animals permitting approach of up
to 150 ft without fear. 
In addition to the Wild Ass, a few Nilgai were also spotted.
During the period I visited, salt workers were present in the sanctuary. The salt workers, are
locals, who traditionally spend the winter months in the sanctuary, panning crystal salt from the
earth. It is estimated that over 25,000 salt pans spring up in the sanctuary in the winter months.

Temperatures varied from 40 deg. C in the day to 4-5 deg C in the night. There was very little
vegetation, with only few grasses growing. In the fringe area, Prosopis juliflora abounds, planted
by the Forest Dept., in the 1970’s.
Birdwatching in the sanctuary: A large part of the desert area has no visible life, and definitely
no birds. In the fringe area, one can see a few desert birds. Parts of the sanctuary, especially
near the fringe, have a few waterbodies, at the desert edge. Most of the birds were seen at these
waterbodies. Most of my birdwatching was done in the sanctuary at a creek in the Bajana area.
Local contacts: 
Devjibhai Dhamecha, D.P. Arts, Devkrupa, Jin Plote, Dhrangadra, 363310
Tel: 02754 50560
Fax: 02754 50300
The Forest Department has no facilities to offer in the sanctuary. Devjibhai Dhamecha, a local
person has basic facilities for boarding and lodging, and also has a jeep, which is essential in
order to get into the sanctuary. Devjibhai is very knowledgeable about the flora and the fauna in
WAS and has been actively involved in the efforts to protect the WAS.
In addition to this, there is a tourist resort, Desert Courser’s camp at the edge of the
sanctuary. 
List of birds seen

S. no.	 Common name			Latin name
5.	Little Grebe				Podiceps ruficollis
20.	Rosy Pelican				Pelecanus onocrotalus
Bajana area: Commonly seen. Large flocks of up to 100 birds were seen in the water.
28.	Little Cormorant 			Phalacrocorax niger
42.	Pond Heron 				Ardeola grayii
36.	Grey Heron				Ardea cinerea
37.	Purple Heron				Ardea purpurea
49.	Little Egret				Egretta garzetta
60.	Painted Stork				Mycteria leucocephala
68.	White Ibis				Threskiornis aethiopica
Small flocks of birds (4-10 birds) seen at the creek at Bajana.
71.	Glossy Ibis				Plegadis falcinellus
72.	Spoonbill				Platalea leucorodia
74.	Lesser Flamingo			Phoeniconaias minor
Bajana area: A small number of birds seen on the evening of the 31 st. The next morning, there
were only a handful of Lesser Flamingos. According to Devjibhai, birds would have flown to another
water body in the Kharagoda area, which is quite close by.
90.	Ruddy Shelduck			Tadorna ferruginea
91.	Common Shelduck			Tadorna tadorna
Bajana area: 3 male birds seen resting in the water amidst all the other ducks.
93.	Pintail					Anas acuta
Seen in small numbers.
94.	Common Teal				Anas crecca 
At one part of the water body, there was a large flock of drakes, feeding near the reeds.
103. 	Wigeon				Anas penelope
Bajana area: Very common. Seen in large numbers, possibly over a thousand birds. (At best a
guesstimate)
105. 	Shoveller				Anas querquedula
Bajana area: Along with the Wigeon, the commonest duck. There must have been over a thousand
Shovellers in the area. (At best a guesstimate)
109.	White-eyed Pochard			Aythya nyroca
3 White-eyed Pochard seen through the spotting scope in the water body at Bajana.
124.	Blackwinged Kite			Elanus caeruleus
133.	Pariah Kite				Milvus migrans govinda
168.	Tawny Eagle				Aquila rapax vindhiana
185.	Whitebacked Vulture			Gyps bengalensis
186.	Neophron				Neophron percnopterus
A solitary sighting of a Neophron in the desert area.
191.	Montagu’s Harrier			Circus pygargus
In the Bajana area, I spent the night at the watchtower. I was walking in the fringe area in the
as dusk approached, when I spotted a harrier circling the area. For the next hour or so, I spotted
numerous harriers in the area. All the birds were Montagu’s Harriers, both male and female birds.
All the birds settled in a field, at the adge of the desert, with more pairs still coming in as
the light faded. I counted at least 10 birds in the field, both male and female. The harriers were
obviously roosting in the field.
193.	Marsh Harrier				Circus aeruginosus
222.	Kestrel					Falco tinunculus
A solitary sighting of a female Kestrel in the Bajana area at noon time. The Kestrel seen flying
over the desert in shimmering heat.
246.	Grey Partridge				Francolinus pondicerianus (call only)
320.	Common Crane			Grus grus
Bajana area: A flock of over 30 birds seen in the field close to the water. Devjibhai showed us a
grass seed, which the cranes feed on. The seed is tiny, and attached to a dry runner, concealed
under the surface of the earth. The cranes probes the loose mud with their bills and eat the seed.
350.	Coot					Fulica atra
366.	Redwattled Lapwing			Vanellus indicus
Bajana area: Seen frequently, and also heard calling at night.
381.	Kentish Plover				Charadrius alexandrinus
388.	Curlew					Numenius arquata
389.	Blacktailed Godwit			Limosa limosa
393.	Redshank				Tringa totanus
395.	Marsh Sandpiper			Tringa stagnatilis
396.	Greenshank				Tringa  nebularia
397.	Green Sandpiper			Tringa ochropus
401.	Common Sandpiper			Tringa hypoleucos
416.	Little Stint				Calidris minuta
430.	Blackwinged Stilt			Himantopus himantopus
432.	Avocet					Recurvirostra avosetta
Avocets seen commonly in the creek at Bajana.
454.	Brownheaded Gull			Larus brunnicephalus
462.	Caspian Tern				Hydroprogne caspia
Bajana area: Sighting of a solitary bird at the creek
464.	Common Tern?			Sterna hirundo
487.	Indian Sandgrouse			Pterocles exustus
Spotted a flock of sandgrouse flying overhead the water body in the Bajana area 
516.	Blue Rock Pigeon			Columba livia
534.	Ringed Dove				Streptopelia decaocto
541.	Little Brown Dove			Streptopelia senagalensis
735.	Whitebreasted Kingfisher		Halcyon pileata
719.	Lesser Pied Kingfisher		Ceryle rudis
750.	Green Bee-eater			Merops orientalis
878.	Ashy Crowned Finch-lark		Eremopterix grisea
882.	Rufoustailed Finch-lark		Ammomanes phoenicurus
899.	Crested Lark				Galerida cristata
Short-toed Lark				Calendrella cinerea ?
Unconfirmed identification. A large flock of larks in the desert.
I was a bit disappointed at not seeing more larks during my visit. I was hoping to sight at least
the Large Desert Lark (Alaemon aluadipes), but had no luck.
916.	Swallow				Hirundo rustica
933.	Grey Shrike				Lanius excubitor
Seen in the Bajana area, often on Prosopis juliflora.
943.	Pale Brown Shrike			Lanius collurio isabellinus
The commonest shrike in the desert areas. Seen frequently in all areas with thorny scrub
vegetation.
963.	Black Drongo				Dicrurus similis
1008.	Bank Myna				Acridotheres ginginianus
1048.	House Crow 				Corvus splendens
1054.	Jungle Crow				Corvus macrorhynhos
1254.	Common Babbler			Turdoides caudatus
1556.	Blyth’s Reed Warbler			Acrocephalus dumetorum
1567.	Lesser Whitethroat			Sylvia curruca
*1571.	Desert Warbler			Sylvia nana
Bajana area: At the watchtower, at the desert edge, in the Bajana area, I was observing the Pied
Chat Oenanthe picata, on a short thorny bush. Whilst watching the Pied Chat, I saw another small
bird quite close to the Chat on the same bush. I spent over 15 minutes watching the bird. The
bird’s behavior was typical of warblers, as it hopped from one stem to another. As I had the
Pictorial Guide with me, I searched for a bird which matched its description, but in vain. I made
my notes, and mentioned that the bird was definitely a warbler, and possibly the Desert Warbler. I
confirmed my identification upon consulting the Handbook. The plate in the Pictorial Guide is
atrocious, possibly the worst portrait of any bird in the book! The Handbook (an old print) has a
much better plate.
The Desert Warbler, stayed on the bush for quite a while, and flew to another bush, only on being
disturbed.
1710.	Desert Wheatear			Oenanthe deserti
Very commonly seen in the fringe area, in all places we visited. The Desert Wheatear’s normally on
Prosopis or other thorny scrub. At Bajana, I got to within 5 feet of the bird, and managed quite a
few decent photographs, before the bird flew away.
1712.	Pied Chat				Oenanthe picata
Only a few sightings. Not as common as the Desert Wheatear. Seen at Bajana, near the watchtower.
1861.	Tawny Pipit				Anthus campestris
The commonest pipit in the desert. Seen commonly in most area. Very common in the desert area at
Bajana. Call note: “wheeeech” or “wheeecheyu”.
1876.	Yellow Wagtail			Motacilla flava
1917.	Purple Sunbird			Nectarinia asiatica
Spotted the sunbird at the office of the forest department, on the outskirts of the city.
1938.	House Sparrow			Passer domesticus
1966.	Whitethroated Munia			Lonchura malabarica

*First sighting ever
= Outside the sanctuary limits
? Unconfirmed identification
Numbers based on the Handbook of the Birds of India and Pakistan

Trip report by
Sanjay Sondhi
B 1 Siddeshwar Heights, ITI Road,
Aundh, Pune 411007
tel: 020 5885717
email: sondhi@yahoo.com