Participants: Vivek Tiwari, Sujan Chatterjee, Mohit Aggarwal
Author: Vivek Tiwari; Author contact: spiderhunters@yahoo.com
(pic) (pic)
Hoolock Gibbon Female
Deban, Namdapha NP Hornbill Camp, Namdapha NP
(pic) (pic)
Streaked Spiderhunter Black (Malayan) Giant Squirrel
Itinerary:
2 March: Flight from
3 March: Miao to Deban. Evening walk by
the
4 March: Trek from Deban to Haldibari.
5 March: Trek from Haldibari to Hornbill.
6 March: Trek from Hornbill to past Bulbulia and back to Hornbill.
7 March: Hornbill to Deban.
8 March: AM:
PM: North bank of Noa-Dihing across from Deban FRH.
9 March: AM: Near Deban FRH; PM Drive to Tinsukhia via Miao.
10 March: AM: Dibru-Saikhowa, boat-ride and birding along
north bank on
PM: Drive to Wild Grass Resort near Kaziranga NP
11 March: AM: Jeep ride
PM:
12 March: AM:
PM: Tea plantation south of Wild Grass.
13 March: AM:
PM:
Drive to Guwahati for flight back to
Logistics arranged by:
Asian Adventures (contact: info@indianwildlife.com)
& HELP Tourism (contact: sujan75@vsnl.net)
Key highlights: Beautiful Nuthatch, Black-headed Shrike Babbler, Greater Rufous-headed
Parrotbill, Broad-billed Warbler, Rufous-backed Sibia, Rufous-throated Fulvetta,
Rufous-necked Hornbill, Brown Hornbill, White-bellied Heron, Ibisbill, Jerdon’s Babbler,
Bengal Florican, Hodgson’s Redstart.
Also: Hoolock Gibbon, Slow Loris, Hog-Badger, Namdapha Flying Squirrel.
In March 2004, Mohit Aggarwal, Sujan Chatterjee and I made a 10-day birding
trip to the Northeast (
This was a long awaited and anticipated trip for us. Namdapha, in particular, was a place
that had captured my imagination the first time I heard about it many years ago.
Some brief notes and an annotated trip-list follow (with links to some photos
taken on the trip).
Namdapha is now surprisingly accessible for a place that's literally in the extreme
eastern corner of the country. Once you get to Dibrugarh or Tinsukhia and
have the Inner Line and Park permits (Mohit and Sujan got these for us ahead of time),
in just 5-6 hrs one can be in Deban looking at Beautiful Sibias. Of course to get to some
of the real avian prizes like Beautiful Nuthatch and Snowy-throated Babbler, camping for
multiple nights in the tourist buffer zone is required (Haldibari/Hornmbill/Bulbulia/Embeong),
at least until further explorations by more birders can find these special species closer
to Deban.
On the 3rd day of the trek, I did hit a bonanza flock past Bulbulia which
yielded 3 Beautiful Nuthatches, and other goodies like Black-headed Shrike Babbler,
Red-billed Scimitar Babbler, and two of the longest names among Indian birds -
Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill and Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler. However missed
out on the ultimate Namdapha specialty - Snowy-throated Babbler and some other
bamboo specialties and it was only later that we found out that further towards Embeong
and Rani Jheel would have been better for these. We made the strategic mistake of not
camping there or at least spending a few more hours in the area east of Bulbulia.
Closer to Deban and Haldibari we found other stars like 5 Ibisbills, White-bellied Heron,
Pied Falconets, Rufous-necked Hornbills, a single Brown Hornbill, Broad-billed Warbler etc.
(See the notes in the trip list for details).
While we saw about a third of the 450 odd species on the park's list, including 25 species
of babblers, birding was challenging and in the limited time we had, every species had to
be earned. Typical rainforest birding with lots of skulkers and mostly a matter of finding the
right flocks. During the trek, after the initial activity in the early morning, there would be
long slow stretches with only an occasional warbler or flycatcher in the under-story.
Then one would hit a canopy flock with all the little critters managing a good
job of hiding behind leaves or posing under the worst possible light. All the while
all the leeches within a radius of a 3-4 feet, would hone in towards our feet with
uncanny accuracy (guided by body heat and driven by pure bloodthirstiness).
If it wasn't for the "joke mojas" (leech socks), that Sujan had brought along, we
could have come back several kgs lighter! The ubiquitous leech was a dark brown
one that thankfully stayed on the ground and the leech socks performed well.
Before entering the tent for the night though, one still had to be scan carefully for
any leeches that may have hitched a ride, However past Haldibari, we started running into
this beautifully patterned green leech that apparently was up into the undergrowth and
low branches and was better at beating our defenses.
Some personal impressions on the state of the park: the difficult terrain of the core areas is
its greatest defense at this point. The park staff are knowledgeable
and commendably courteous to visitors, and very helpful in arranging logistics and porters
(Chakma tribals who have settled in the area) for treks. However the staff do spend
essentially all their time in Deban. Their relations with the Lisus living in the park
are strained (i.e. the staff’s attempts to curb hunting have led to threats against them).
Hunting and trapping are apparently rampant as evidenced by the lack of
big mammals. Mohit did hear a tiger on the road before Deban but that was the only
evidence we came across of any cats. A Swiss group came across a Gaur near
Embeong but the joke among the locals was that the particular animal was
alive just because it was Lent.
There is significant foot traffic along the Noa-Dihing, mostly Lisus traveling between the
markets
in Miao and the Lisu settlement in Gandhigram on the
We came across Lisu families in traditional attire as well as teenagers in metro clothes and
sneakers. One afternoon we crossed the river at Deban to check out a new private tourist
camp that has come up on the north shore just outside the park boundary. There is a village
there and entire area is completely deforested and quite a contrast to what's in the park.
(On a side note, Daphabum, at 15,020 ft , the highest point in the park, was visible as a
distant, hazy snow covered peak from here, though its not visible from the opposite shore).
The western shore of the Deban river (outside the park) also appeared to have signs of
significant human settlement, visible from the initial part of the trek to Haldibari.
All this only underscores the importance of the additional attention that’s needed for the
protection of the park. A strikingly large fraction of the NE Himalayan endemic species
we saw are considered at risk (see annotations in species list below). Namdapha has to
be a key piece in the remaining habitat for these, patchy and scattered as it is, across
both sides of the international border would need to be controlled to ensure habitat continuity.
There were other rewards besides special birds. 4 species of primates including
multiple sightings of Hoolock Gibbons, the only non-human ape species in
There was at least one pair of Hoolocks that stayed around Deban and even
an amateur like me got (digiscoped) close-ups of these, as well of those of
the Malayan Giant Squirrels (see under Mammals below).
The recently described, nocturnal Namdapha Flying squirrel was also seen at night at
Hornbill and at Deban. There were of course other things to see - a Hog-Badger
that wandered onto the trail, lots of butterflies, and at all times the luxuriant, varied vegetation
with tree ferns and bamboo and wild banana growing next to each other.
A botanical highlight was a flower and bud of the endangered root parasitic plant
Sapria himalayana of the family Rafflesiaceae. (This is the family that includes
_Rafflesia arnoldii_ of
from only a few other sites in Arunachal and has a very limited worldwide distribution.
(See http://www.ias.ac.in/currsci/dec252003/1668.pdf for more details on this plant)
While trekking back to Deban we ran into Joynal (Benu) Abedin of the Dibru-Saikhowa
Wildlife Conservation Society, who also runs a tourist camp near Dibru-Saikhowa.
He encouraged us to visit Dibru-Saikhowa assuring us of a good chance for
the specialties - Black-breasted Parrotbill, Jerdon's and Marsh Babblers etc.
(After dinner that night at Deban, he also tipped us off on a Slow Loris near the FRH
and with a little bit of effort we had a Slow Loris in our flashlights. Quite a thrill,
with a Namdapha Flying Squirrel added in as a bonus.)
With the change in plans, after we left Namdapha on the 9th we stayed the
night in Tinsukhia and got to Guijan Ghat on the morning of the 10th.
With a young guide Vijay Rajak and a forest guard armed with a rifle and
elephant shot (standard practice here and at Kaziranga), we puttered up the Dibru river for
about an hour and landed at a site on the north shore. There we spent a couple of hours
looking for our target species. It was an interesting experience, walking through
dense 10 feet high elephant grass, stepping on elephant and tiger pugmarks. However,
we did get great views of a Jerdon's Babbler but only the backs of a couple of
Black-breasted Parrotbills as they dove into cover.
The other specialty, the Marsh Babbler was apparently better found further
east on the main track towards Kolomi. I got only as far as Kundaghat Camp but it was
getting late and reluctantly we had to leave and headed off towards Kaziranga, reaching
the Wild Grass Lodge late at night.
Kaziranga of course was a complete change with relaxed big game viewing –
Wild
Elephants mating in the open, rhinos mock-charging – all quintessential Kaziranga.
Diligent scoping in the
there - Bengal Florican. The grass-burning season has just started and we watched as
Black Drongos and Indian Rollers would fly in as soon as the forest guards lit flames
(a BBC crew was there shooting the
same scene for the "
new BBC series "Planet Earth" that will air in a couple of years).
We did lose a good part of one morning due to a bandh (strike). Not much happened
but we ended up leaving late in the morning and taking the back-roads to stay
off the main highway. The tea gardens in the area are worth exploring as well.
A couple of hours I spent in the gardens south of Wild Grass (in the direction of the
Karbi hills), hinted at a lot of potential there, given the scattered patches of
bamboo and wild vegetation along a stream there. Also encouraging are the keen, young
guides at Wild Grass. Nekib Ali, a guide I spent some time with knew his birds (trained by
Mann Barua) and was also eager to learn. We found a flock of
Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes with a couple of White-browed Scimitar Babblers,
but missed out on White-headed Babbler.
After 3 days in open country we were already missing the forest, so for our last
morning we decided to spend time in Panbari - the narrow band of tall forest that
provides shelter to Kaziranga's mammals during the flood season (once they negotiate the
traffic on the highway that is!). In the 2 hours or so that we had, the early part was really
slow as our assigned forest guard stayed on trails close to the road. Later things improved
on a trail that headed into the forest (near the tea gardens on the eastern edge of the reserve).
But just as things were looking up on this trail, we heard the loud snapping of branches
of an elephant close to the trail, causing us to beat a hasty retreat. However did get
Abbot's Babbler here. A quick stop at Kohora, yielded a female Hodgson's Redstart
(a species currently not on the Kaziranga checklist.)
After that it was time to drive straight back to Guwahati
for the flight back to
------------------
Trip List:
Species order and names follow the OBC checklist.
Key: N - Namdapha; D - Dibru-Saikhowa; K - Kaziranga
3-13 – Dates (3-13 March) sighted;
h: heard only
If noted VTi, MAg, SCh: Vivek, Mohit or Sujan only, respectively.
Globally threatened and near-threatened species are marked based on information
in Krys Kazmierczak’s “A Birdwatchers’ Guide to
given in brackets follow Collar et al’s “Birds to Watch 2” (Cambridge: BirdLife, 1994).
(C) – Critical; (E) – Endangered; (V) – Vulnerable;
(D) – Data Deficient; (N) – Near-threatened.
Links are provided to photos taken on the trip by Sujan and I. Sujan was using a
Canon EOS-10D digital SLR with 400mm zoom lens. A great piece of equipment
for forest birding. I was digiscoping with a Nikon Coolpix 995 and
Mohit's Swarovksi 85mm scope.
The high resolution originals are available on request.
OBC English Name OBC Scientific Name
Swamp
Francolin Francolinus
gularis (V)
D, K. 10 h, 11, 12h
Multiple sightings in Kaziranga.
Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis
N h. 6 h
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
K. 11, 12
Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos
K. 11. Subspecies _lathami_
Grey Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum
N. 5-9
Heard daily at Namdapha. Very difficult to see. Had a bird flush on the 7th.
SCh,MAg got a glimpse on the 8th. VTi glimpsed a shape of the bird on the 9th.
Greylag
Goose Anser anser
K. 11
Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus
D, K. 10, 11, 12
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
D. 10
Gadwall Anas strepera
D, K. 10, 11, 12
Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope
K. 11
Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha
D. 10, 11, 12
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
K. 11
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
K. 11
Common Teal Anas crecca
K. 11
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
K. 11
Common Merganser Mergus merganser
N. 3, 4, 8, 9
White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea
N. 4, 7, 8
A great looking, daring bird that would come down to eye level and only a few feet away.
With mixed flocks each time.
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus
K. 11
Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus
K. 11
Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus
N, K. 9, 11
Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha
N, K. 4, 6, 8, 9, 13
Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus
K. 11
Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus
N, K. 9, 12, 13
Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense
K, 11
Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus
N. 3 h, 5 (MAg, SCh)
Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis
N. 8 (VTi)
With the large
mixed flock I ran into on
N. 3-9. Daily in Namdapha
Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata
N, K. 4, 11, 12, 13
Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica
N, D, K. Daily.
Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis
K h. 13 h
We listened for
it everywhere, but the only confirmed id by call was in the
on the last morning. However, the darned thing just wouldn't show itself despite 3 pairs
of eyes looking up into the tree.
Coppersmith
Barbet Megalaima haemacephala
N h, D h, K h. 3h, 10-13h
Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris
K. 11, 13.
In Eastern and
Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis
N, K. 4, 6, 7, 11
A pair calling in the afternoon around Haldibari. At one point there was a Great Hornbill
posing on a tree on one side of camp, and a Rufous-necked Hornbill posing on the other!
The kind of sublime birding experience that only places like Namdapha can provide.
On the return trek, between Hornbill and Haldibari a flock of perhaps a dozen
Great Hornbills “whooshed” directly overhead.
Brown Hornbill Anorrhinus tickelli (N)
N. 5 (VTi)
I found a single bird below Haldibari. First heard calling and then seen through a gap
in the canopy. Namdapha perhaps provides the best opportunity for seeing this
species in
Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis (V)
N. 4, 5 h, 7 h, 8
A male seen on the trek to Haldibari and later a pair calling around the Haldibari
camp, with the female providing a great photo op. A pair seen on MV road as well.
This is sometimes considered harder to find than the Wreathed Hornbill, which we didn't
see at all on this trip.
Common Hoopoe Upupa epops
K. 11, 12
Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus
N. 4, 5, 7. Multiple sightings on the trek in Namdapha.
Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis
N, D, K. 3, 8-13
Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis
N. 5 (VTi, SCh)
5 birds flying across a clearing one behind the other at Halidbari.
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
K. 11, 13
Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis
D, K. 10, 11
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
N, D, K. 3, 10-13
Crested Kingfisher Megaceryle lugubris
N. 3, 7, 8. On the Noa-Dihing at Deban.
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
D, K. 10, 11, 12
Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni
N, K. 5, 7, 11
Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
K. 11, 12
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti
K. 11, 12
Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides
N. 5 h, 6 h, 7, 9 h
Green-billed
Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis
N, K. 5, 11, 12, 13
With mixed flocks each time.
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
K. 11, 12, 13h
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
N. 8
The river edge grasslands below Deban looked like an ideal spot for this species,
but only saw this once and that too a pretty shy bird.
Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria
K. 11
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
D, K. 10-13
Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri
K. 11-13. Kaziranga and Panbari.
Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis
N. 8, 9
In early
morning, a small flock of Needletails over the
intersection of
road down to Deban FRH. The upper back was whitish in distinct contrast with
the rest of the dark upperparts. The throat was dark like the breast and belly but at
certain angles it appeared a bit lighter on some of the birds.
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
N, K. 3, 11-13
House Swift Apus affinis
N. 6.
Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus
N h. 4 h, 5 h, 6 h, 8 h. Heard every night on the trek. Also at Deban.
Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica
N h. 4 h. Heard outside Deban FRH.
Collared
Owlet Glaucidium brodiei
N h. 4-7 h, 9 h
Heard daily at Namdapha - day and night.
Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides
N, D, K. 3, 4-7 h, 8, 9 h, 10-13
The calls of this and Jungle Owlet can be confusing.
But those we heard in Namdapha were judged to be all Asian Barred.
Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum
K. 11, 13
Spotted Owlet Athene brama
K. 11, 13
Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata
N h. 3 h, 9 h. Heard outside Deban FRH.
Rock Pigeon Columba livia
N, D, K. 3, 9-13
Spotted Dove Streptopelia
chinensis
N, D, K. 3, 4,
8-13
Red Collared Dove Streptopelia
tranquebarica
K. 12
Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
N, K. 3, 9, 12
Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera
D, K. 10-12
Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda
N. 5, 7, 9. On the trek in Namdapha.
Green
Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
N h, D, K. 7 h, 10, 11, 13
Heard at Namdapha. Great views of a pair at Dibru-Saikhowa. Also at Kaziranga.
Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia
N. 4-7
Flying overhead daily on the trek in Namdapha. Mainly in the morning and late afternoon.
Bengal Florican Houbaropsis bengalensis (E)
K. 12
I found a distant male and female after much effort in the grasslands
west of the road past the entrance gate in the
Not the best of views but still a big thrill since this was the main target in Kaziranga.
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
D, K. 10-13
Watercock Gallicrex cinerea
K. 11
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
K. 11, 12
Common Coot Fulica atra
K. 11
Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura
K. 11 (MAg, SCh)
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
K. 11
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
K. 11
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
N, D. 8, 10
Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus
K. 11-13
Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii
N. 3
On the south bank of the Noa-Dihing, downstream from the FRH. Initially Mohit
found 2 distant birds in the scope on a pebble strewn island. Later after crossing a
stream and getting closer, I found a total of 5 birds!
Excellent views including birds preening, flying, calling. A trip highlight..
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
D. 10
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
K. 11
River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii
K. 12
Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus (N)
K. 12
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
N, K. 3, 7h, 11
Pallas's Gull Larus ichthyaetus
D. 10
River Tern Sterna aurantia
K. 11, 12
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
K. 11
Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
K. 12
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
D, K. 10, 11
Black Kite Milvus migrans
D, K. 10, 13
Pallas's Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus (V)
K. 11, 12
In Eastern and Central ranges. A bird on a nest with two juveniles in the E. range.
Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus (N)
K. 11. Eastern Range, Kaziranga. At least 2 different sightings.
Slender-billed
Vulture Gyps fulvus (E)
K. 12
Long-billed Vulture Gyps indicus (E)
D, K. 10, 11, 12
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
N, K. 4h, 8, 9, 11
Hen
Harrier Circus cyaneus
N, K. 3, 11
A handsome male just outside Miao. Also the Eastern Range in Kaziranga.
Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos
K. 12. Male,
Shikra Accipiter badius
K. 11-13
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
D. 10 (MAg, SCh)
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis
N. 3
Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga (V)
K. 12
Steppe Eagle
K. 11
Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii
N. 3
Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus
K. 11, 12
Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis
N. 5, 8
Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos
(N)
N. 5-8
One of my favorites for the trip. I was absolutely thrilled when I found
one in fading light atop a tall distant snag at Hornbill. But then we ended up seeing it
everyday the next four days. On the 6th there was 3 birds together on the same snag.
Later also seen at Deban FRH on two different days at different locations.
Obviously not an uncommon species at Namdapha.
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
N, D, K. 8, 10-12
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
N. 3
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
K. 11
Darter Anhinga
melanogaster (V)
D, K. 10-12
Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax
D, K. 10-13
Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis
D. 10
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
N, D, K. 3, 4, 7-12
Several in breeding plumage on the Noa-Dihing.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
D, K. 10-12
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
K. 11, 12
White-bellied Heron Ardea insignis (E)
N. 3
On the first afternoon at Namdapha. The staff told us that a W-B Heron flew over the
river past the FRH around
half we had given up hope when Sujan spotted this huge bird slowly flying away in
the distant. This was good since we did not see it again. An Italian group that was in
Namdapha at the same time missed this species.
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
K. 11, 12
Great Egret Casmerodius albus
K. 11-13
Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia
K. 11
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
D, K. 10-12
Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
N, D, K. 3, 9-12
Little Heron Butorides striatus
D. 10
Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis (V)
K. 2, 11.
A fly-over flock near Dibrugarh airport on the 2nd and on 11th the
large Pelican colony in the Eastern range.
Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans (V)
D, K. 10, 11, 13
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
N, K. 4, 10, 12
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
K. 11, 12
Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus
K. 11-12
Lesser
Adjutant Leptoptilos
javanicus (V)
K. 11-13. Including an adult feeding a juv. on a nest.
Greater
Adjutant Leptoptilos
dubius (E)
K. 11-13
Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis
K. 12.
Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons
N, K. 5, 13
Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii
N. 3-10. Daily in Namdapha
Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus
K. 11-13
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
N, K. 3, 9-12. ssp. _tricolor_
Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus
N, K. 3, 8, 9, 11-13
Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis
N. 5, 6, 8
Multiple sightings, with a mixed flock near Hornbill and singly at Deban and Panbari.
Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
D, K. 10-13
Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae
N. 8, 9. Unfortunately, just couldn't turn up a Collared Treepie anywhere.
House Crow Corvus splendens
D, K. 10, 13
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
N, D, K. 3, 5, 7 h, 8-13
Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus
N, K. 3, 11, 12
Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii
N. 3, 4, 6, 7
Common on Coral and Semal trees in Namdapha.
Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei
K. 11-13. With mixed flocks.
Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos
N. 5, 6. Haldibari.
Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus
K. 11, 12
Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris
K. 12
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus
N, K. 3-6, 8, 9, 11
Colorful flocks of Minivets flying overhead and then landing and promptly
vanishing into the canopy was a common sight. Whenever we managed an identifiable
look, they were mostly Scarlet. Only in Kaziranga, did I have a bird that I was
comfortable identifying as a Short-billed.
Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha
N. 4-8
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis
N. 5, 7-9
Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
D, K. 10-13
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
N. 3-9
Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus
N. 3-5, 8
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer
N. 5-9
Spangled Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus
N, K. 3, 4, 8, 11, 12
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus
N, K. 4, 8, 9, 11, 13
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea
K. 13. Panbari.
Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis
N, K. 4-6, 8, 12, 13
Common with mixed flocks in Namdapha
Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii
N. 3, 8
Noa-Dihing below the Deban FRH
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
N. 8 (MAg, SCh) at eco-camp opposite Deban, 9 on a dry creek bed on MV road.
Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus
N. 3, 8, 9
Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma
N. 7
The only _Zoothera_ seen. Flushed from the path between Haldibari and Deban.
White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus
N. 4 (MAg, SCh)
Dark-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis (pic 1) (pic 2)
N. 5, 6
A single bird foraging on open ground a few yards away at Hornbill
camp provided this great photo op.
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
N. 5. Multiple sightings between Haldibari and Hornbill.
Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina
K. 12
Large Niltava Niltava grandis
N. On 4th a female, a male on the 6th (MAg, SCh)
Small
Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae
N, K. 9, 11
Rufous-bellied
Niltava Niltava sundara
N. 8, 9
Pygmy Blue
Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni
N. 3-6
The most common blue flycatcher in Namdapha. Often the only bird seen during
long slow stretches in late morning/early afternoon.
Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
N. 4-8
With flocks and alone in the understory.
White-tailed Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis
D. 10. At Dibru-Saikhowa on the north bank.
Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis
N, K. 3, 11-13
White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus
K. 11, 12
A very confiding individual in the Wild Grass Lodge garden at dawn on the 12th.
Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni
K f. 13 f (VTi)
Essentially the last bird of the trip. I found (and digiscoped) a female
at Kohora on our last failed attempt to find the Black-backed Forktail that had been seen
at the stream below the Soil Conservation Dept's rest house on the road that leads up into
the Karbi Hills. The species is not on the Kaziranga checklist.
Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus
K f. 11 f, 12f
In the gardens around Wild Grass lodge. Both times a female.
White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
N, K. 3, 8, 11, 13
Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus
N. 3, 4, 7, 8
White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucura
N, K. 5 h, 6, 13
A bird just past Hornbill seen on two days. Also at Panbari.
Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri
N. 3
A single bird near the Ibisbills.
Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus
N. 3, 6, 8, 9
The common forktail of the small forest nullahs (rivulets) in Namdapha.
White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti
N. 6
In the sulfur-spring fed stream in the clearing below Bulbulia.
Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata
N, D, K. 3, 8, 10-12
Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea
N. 4
Spot-winged Starling Saroglossa spiloptera (N)
K. 12, 13
2 large flying flocks, once in the Central Range, once near Panbari.
Perhaps getting ready for their westward migration.
Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus
N, D, K. 3, 9-13
Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra
D, K. 10-13
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
N, D, K. 3, 8-13
Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus
N, D, K. 3, 8-13
White-vented (Great) Myna Acridotheres cinereus
N, D, K. 3, 10, 11
At Miao on a Semal tree near the tourist bungalow. At Dibrugarh in hotel trees
and on the top of pigs in Dibru-Saikhowa.
Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea
N. 3, 5-7
Beautiful Nuthatch
Sitta
N. 6 (VTi, MAg)
Yes!! It was about an hour and half after we had reached the extensive bamboo
stand 2-3Kms past Bulbulia. About 11AM and past the time we had decided we
would turn back for spending some time in Bulbulia camp prior to heading back to
Hornbill for the night. The only birds we had seen so far in the bamboo was a flock of
Yellow-bellied Warblers. Sujan had already turned back, but I kept going further,
repeatedly telling Mohit that I will turn back after the "next" corner. Finally heard some
chips and chirps of a flock and suddenly the mixed-long-named-species flock
was right there, crossing the trail ahead. The first bird was a Slender-billed Scimitar babbler,
followed by a Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill. Then a Red-billed Scimitar Babbler
probing along a low branch with its curved bill and a striking looking
Black-headed Shrike Babbler creeping along the moss-covered branches of a tree.
And then there it was, a Beautiful Nuthatch! In the meantime Mohit who was behind a
corner was looking at 2 more of the Nuthatches. Later as we watched together,
the 3 birds came into the same field of view, and we really feasted our eyes on this
beautiful and special species.
Great Tit Parus major
K. 12
Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea
N. 3-7
Common in Namdapha with mixed flocks.
Plain Martin Riparia paludicola
N, D. 3, 10
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
D, K. 10-13
Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis
N. 3
Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus
N. 9 (SCh). MV road near Deban.
Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus
N, K. 4, 9, 13
Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
N, D, K. 3-5, 8-13
Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
N, D, K. 3, 7-13
The darker eastern races. The ones in Namdapha could have been _stanfordi_
White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus
N, K. 4-9, 13 h
One of the most conspicuous bird in Namdapha.
N. 4-8
Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
N. 8, 9
Zitting
Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
D, K. 10, 11
Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
D. 10
Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris
N, D. 3, 8, 10
Oriental White-Eye Zosterops palpebrosus
N, K. 4, 12
Chestnut-headed
Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata
N. 7 (VTi)
A single bird that I saw right outside Deban FRH was the only sighting.
Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea
N. 3, 7, 8, 9
Perhaps rather common. Often heard from trailside undergrowth. I had
eye-popping views of a bird belting out its song in the bamboo below Haldibari.
Another played hide and seek with our cameras between Hornbill and Haldibari.
Often heard along MV road and the path down to Deban FRH.
Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon
D. 10
Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
K. 11-13
Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus
D, K. 10, 12 (M, S)
Smoky Warbler Phylloscopus fuligiventer (pic 1) (pic 2)
D. 10
Two in the elephant grass near a puddle at Dibru-Saikhowa.
Managed to get these couple of shabby photographs.
Appears to be the subspecies _fuligiventer_
Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis
K. 11
N. 5, 7.
With mixed flocks in Namdapha
Yellow-vented Warbler Phylloscopus cantator (N)
N. 4, 8.
Singly a couple of times and with mixed flocks in Namdapha.
Golden-spectacled Warbler Seicercus burkii
N, K. 9, 11.
Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos
N. 7
Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys
N. 7, 8
Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps
N. 7
In a mixed flock between Hornbill and Haldibari.
Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni (N)
N. 5 (VTi), 7 (MAg, SCh)
I had a great close looks at a bird that was in the same field of view as
a Grey-bellied Tesia in the bamboo below Haldibari. A brightly plumaged,
striking bird that the plates in guides don't do justice to. Mohit and Sujan
had a bird in the same area on the way back.
Rufous-faced Warbler Abroscopus albogularis
N. 4-8.
This beautiful little guy was gratifyingly common in Namdapha. Singly and
with mixed flocks.
Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris
N. 6, 8.
A bamboo specialist. In same-species flocks in bamboo past Bulbulia and
past Deban on MV road.
Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris
N, D, K. 3, 8-12
White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus
N, K h. 6 (SCh), 12 h
Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger
N. 9 (VTi)
A flock on MV road was the only sighting.
Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax pectoralis
N, K. 4-6, 8, 9, 11
The most commonly seen Laughingthrush in Namdapha. In the morning they would
even come to feed on top of a Coral tree outside Deban FRH where the photo above
was taken. Also at Kohora outside Kaziranga.
Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Garrulax ruficollis
N, K. 9, 12
A flock drinking from a puddle on the Deban-Miao road.
Also a flock in a bamboo covered ravine in the tea garden south of Wild Grass.
Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea
N. 7.
A single bird with Mesias in the bamboo below Deban (MAg, SCh).
Later 3 near a rivulet on the trek back to Deban.
Abbott's
Babbler Malacocincla
abbotti
K. 12
A couple of sigthings in Panbari near the edge of the tea garden.
Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps
K. 12
White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps
K. 12 (VTi)
3 in a mixed flock with Rufous-necked Laughingthrush in a bamboo covered ravine
in the tea garden south of Wild Grass.
Red-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ochraceiceps
N. 6 (VTi, MAg)
In the bamboo past Bulbulia (cf. Beautiful Nuthatch).
Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris (N)
N. 6 (VTi)
In the bamboo past Bulbulia (cf. Beautiful Nuthatch)
Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla
N. 5 (VTi), 8h, 9
I had excellent naked-eye views (too close to focus with my bins!) at a
rufous morph that boldly hopped out in view in the bamboo below Haldibari.
What a fun bird when viewed upclose! Later we had skulkers at other places.
Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea
N. 8.
First patch of bamboo along MV road, east of Deban.
Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps
N. 7, 8.
In a mixed-flock just below Haldibari. Also MV road.
Striped Tit Babbler Macronous gularis
N, K. 9, 11 h, 12, 13 h
Heard often in Namdapha and Kaziranga. Best views were at the tea-gardens.
Jerdon's Babbler Chrysomma altirostre (V)
D. 10.
A trip highlight. A singing calling bird seen up close at the Black-breasted Parrotbill
spot on the north bank of the Dibru river.
Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei
K. 11.
Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris
N. 4-9
One of the most beautiful & common birds in Namdapha. Groups of half a dozen or
more with mixed and same species flocks.
Black-headed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer (N)
N. 6 (VTi, MAg)
A trip highlight. In the bamboo past Bulbulia (cf. Beautiful Nuthatch).
White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis
N. 6
Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera
N. 4,5,7
A common component of mixed-species canopy flocks.
Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta
N. 4, 5, 7
A common component of mixed-species canopy flocks.
Rufous-throated Fulvetta Alcippe rufogularis (N)
N. 7
A pair foraging close to the ground near Haldibari.
Nepal
Fulvetta Alcippe
nipalensis
N. 5, 6, 7
Mostly in same-species flocks.
Rufous-backed Sibia Heterophasia annectens
N. 8 (VTi)
Creeping on a moss-covered branch. With a large mixed flock
at a bridge on MV road, approx. 3-4 kms past Deban. This was the farthest
east I got to on MV road. This was a great spot with a creek surrounded by
beautiful mixed vegetation (bamboo, tree ferns, wild banana, moss-covered trees etc.)
Beautiful Sibia Heterophasia pulchella
N. 3-9
One of the most common and visible birds in Namdapha.
Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides
N. 4-9.
Common in Namdapha. Always in groups of half-a-dozen or more. These birds flying
follow-the-leader style from one tree to the other will be one of the
lasting images from the trip.
White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri
N. 5 (VTi). A flock at Haldibari was the only sighting.
Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis
N. 8. MV road.
Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta
N. 3, 6. Deban and Hornbill.
White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca
N. 4-7. Common component of mixed flocks.
Black-breasted Parrotbill Paradoxornis flavirostris (V)
D. 10
North bank of Dibru river. Would have been a major trip highlight
had we got good looks. Only had the backs of 3 birds that dove into cover.
Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps (N)
D. 6 (VTi, MAg)
In the bamboo past Bulbulia (cf. Beautiful Nuthatch).
Rufous-winged Bushlark Mirafra assamica
K. 11, 12 (
Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula
D. 10
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum
K. 11. Wild Grass gardens.
Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata
N. 5 (f), 6, 8
Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja
N, K. 5-6(f), 12, 13
Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna
N. 3-9
Gratifyingly common in Namdapha especially along MV road - singles
flying overhead, giving their metallic "tchirk" call.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
N. K. 9, 11-13.
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
N, D, K. 3, 10, 12
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
N, D, K. 3, 8-13
including ssp. _leucopsis_ and _dukhunensis_
White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis
N, K. 3, 4, 7, 11
Citrine
Wagtail Motacilla citreola
D. 10 _calcarata_ ssp. at Dibrua-saikhowa.
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
K. 13
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus
D. 10
Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
N, K. 9, 12
Butterflies:
Many, but unfortunately none of us knew much about butterflies.
Would appreciate hearing about the correct species identification.
Folded underwing, _Kallima inachus_ Orange Oakleaf Hornbill Camp, Namdapha NP
An amazing mimic of a dead oak leaf.
Open upperwing, _Kallima inachus_ Orange Oakleaf
Popinjay Stibochiona
nicea
Species 3 Deban
Punchinello Zemeros flegyas
Red
Lacewing Cethosia
biblis
Mammals:
Tiger
Panthera tigris
N h, 3 h.
Mohit heard this first near the temple on MV road just before Deban. It sounded
pretty close. Later the park staff told us that a Tiger is known to frequent that area.
Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula
N. 5
Mongoose species (most likely Indian Grey Mongoose, Herpestes edwardsii)
N. 5, 9
Fruit-bat species
N. 10. (Fulvous Flying-Fox Rousettes leschenaultia ?)
Hoary-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus
N, K. 5, 11
Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremonys lokriah
N, K. 5, 6, 8, 9, 13
Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii
N. 5
Black (Malayan) Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor (pic 1) (pic 2)
N, K. 4, 7, 9, 13. Multiple sightings. The best photo-op was at Deban on the first
morning, where these photos were taken.
Namdapha Flying Squirrel Biswamoyopterus biswasi
N. 5, 7, 8.
(A new genus and species described by S. S. Saha in 1981 from a specimen collected
at Deban.)
Just after dark at Hornbill Camp, we heard something move in the tree above the
remaining hut at the campsite (the other hut was burnt down a few months ago).
Managed to get the squirrel in our torches and it was cooperative enough to let us
good looks and check out the id marks which we later compared to the description in
Vivek Menon’s new mammal field guide.
Later also seen on two nights on the path that goes from Deban FRH to MV road.
Hog-Badger Arctonyx collaris
N. 6 (SCh)
Between Hornbill and Bulbulia. Sujan saw it cross the trail while Mohit and I
were trying to photograph a flowering bromeliad.
Slow Loris
One seen on two nights on the path that goes from Deban FRH to MV road.
Same tree both nights. Great views (the animal doesn’t move in a hurry as its
name implies), but not enough light to get any photos.
Hoolock Gibbon Hylobates hoolock (Male) (Female)
N, D h. 4, 5, 7 h, 8 h, 9, 10 h
The only non-human ape in
emanating from within the rainforest and then seeing their acrobatic displays is
a thrill that can’t adequately be described in words. A pair that appears to hang
around Deban FRH provided this great photo-op.
Also a troop seen near Haldibari. Also heard at Dibru-Saikhowa.
Capped Langur Semnopithecus pileatus
N, K. 4, 5 h, 8, 13
Seen at Deban. Also Panbari forest. Grey phase both times.
Assamese
Macaque Macaca assamensis
N. 10. MV road, near the park entrance.
Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta
K. 11.
Indian Elephant Elephas maximus
K. 11, 12
The only sign in Namdapha was of the domestic elephants.
Multiple sightings in Kaziranga. Females with young. Lone tuskers.
A pair mating out in the open, providing all kinds of photo-ops.
Also heard one in Panbari.
Indian Rhinoceros Rhinoceris
unicornis
K. 11, 12
Wild Boar Sus scrofa
K. 11, 12
Indian
Muntjac
Muntiacus muntjac
N h. 7-9 h
Hog
Deer
Axis porcinus
11, 12. K
Swamp
Deer
Cervus duvaucelli
11, 12. K
Water
K. 11, 12
